JE1640WB01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I removed the cover this required a special star Apex tip witha hole in the center. $10 for a set at Lowes.Replaced the fuse and Thermal cut out at the same time. The oven woks like a charm.I would like to add that GE customer service was no help basically told me that it was a throw away unit. If they built it you can fix it.Hope this helps any DIY breathern outthere.

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

After reading reviews that there was no power what so ever and a fuse replacement will solve the problem, I tried it. Replacing the fuse is very easy (and I am not handy at all). All you have to do is remove the microwave cover from the top by removing two screws, slide the cover to the left and pulling the cover off. Then remove the grill in front of you, by removing one or two screws. The fuse is in front of you, use pliers and be firm but gentle. Replacing the fuse is easy but it did not solve my problem.

removed access panal, found soft switch as discribed on your web site. removed and replaced.

PartSelect had helpful repair instructions on-line which made the repair easier and faster. Unfortunately, there were other problems with the oven that immediately blew the new fuse I had just installed. It was then determined that additional repair would most likely cost almost as much as a new microwave.

First unplugged the microwave, took top grill off, took control panel off, took wires off and used color coded tape to make sure they went back in right places, took fuse out and replaced it and put every thing back and it all worked fine and to top it off my wife did it all. So it was pretty easy.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Replace the fuses

Took the screws out that held the oven case on. Looked around and found a connection on the oven cavity thermal cut out the plastic melted and black looking. I knew this was the problem but I checked the fuse anyway and the fuse was good, so I ordered the part from part select and they shipped it out fast and now my microwave is working again.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

Just like the directions said. Very simple.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Removed cover. Found oven flame thermal cutout and measured across the terminals with an ohmmeter. Found no continuity. Thermal cutout wasn't allowing a complete path for input line. Ordered the oven cutout and 2 days later I installed the new part, re-assembled the oven cover and Voila! Fixed. Simple repair saved my friend from having to purchase a new microwave.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.