JE1590WC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.

I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.

After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

Turn the unit on its side and remove the bottom sheet metal panel...that will allow you to see the motor through a 4" x 4" perforated opening in a secondary panel. The cover of that opening can be removed by snipping 3 or 4 attachment points and removing one screw. Disconnect the electrical lead, unscrew the motor mounts, install the new motor and reconnect the electrical lead, and install the plastic "cog" which engages the turntable (align the D-shaft on the motor with the slot in the cog and press down firmly). Reinstall the opening cover. That's it! the toughest part was removing the unit from the cabinet.

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

Replacing the lamp is a no brainer. Getting to it is another story. The company clearly does not want people mucking around inside the case. The two lower rear screws securing the case cover are none tamper screws requiring some kind of special driver. Plus they are hardened metal. Lacking the special tool I had to chisel them out. Add to that the fact that the case and cover are very soft metal and you can imaging the mess I had on my hands. Luckily in the aftermath I was able to straighten every thing out during reassembly and the damage does not show too much. Beware, this is not as easy a job as you might think.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

Replaced

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

1) Removed 4 screws securing the microwave to the cabinet.2) Slid microwave out, unplugged and placed on a work surface that allowed lower trim to hang over. 3a) Removed two screws and removed the cover on top of the oven. 3b) Unplugged high voltage plug from Magnatron. 4) Removed wires from overtemp fuse mounted to Magnatron. 5) Removed the four screws securing the Magnatron to the oven. 6) Removed Manatron. It's a tight fit, but can be done without removing anything else. 7) Replaced Magnatron. This is where I needed the magnetic part retrieval tool. The nature of a Magnatron is the use of strong magnets surrounding the tube. Getting the four screws back into place wasn't possible with just a normal magnetic screwdriver tip. I used the retrieval tool to position the screws back in place. Be sure to not initially tighten any screw completely, until they can be evenly tightened. This ensures correct compression/seating of the shielding material near the neck of the tube. 8) Reverse removal steps. Plugged in and tested microwave function on a cup of tap water. 9) Reinstated in cabinet and got a big thank you kiss from the wife!

I found the right part the first time on PartSelect.

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

M/W mounted in wall so the hardest part was dismounting it and remounting it. That involved removing the frame, removing the top and bottom brackets, unplugging the unit and sliding it out. The repair was just removing about 10 sheet metal screws that held the metal case on and then unplugging the wires to the lamp and removing one screw that held the lamp in. That whole process in reverse puts it all back together.

Now the lamp works great when the M/W is in use or when the door is open. However, since it was a "Me" operation, I now have another problem. When the M/W is in use it is really quiet like maybe there is a fan not working. And after a medium to long use, the whole thing blacks out and cannot be used again until it all cools down. Once the display comes back on, you have to reset the clock and it's ready to go for the next usage.

I guess I either unhooked something or shorted something when I had the case open. Obviously I'll be taking it apart again soon.

Just pulled off the cover, removed the old latch, re-connected the spring...put it all back togeather. Everything just snapps back in. The entire repair took about two minutes. Very easy.

Symptom: Terrible sparking coming from the right side of the microwave even with nothing in the microwave. The part that was behind the cover was the business end of what I learned was the magnetron,

Repair process: Without appliance repair experience I went onto Google and searched for parts for my model PEB1590DM2WW. I was able to find a great parts schematic on partselect.com. At first I ordered a magnetron and while waiting for the parts to arrive I also learned that the capacitor can also fail easily as described in the other install feedback on the partsselect website. So I ordered a capacitor just in case. These convection microwaves are around $600 new so a $80 in parts is not out of line for 8 years of service.
I installed the magnetron first and turned it on. sparking immediately continued so I quickly shut the unit off. After replacing the capacitor and letting it charge for several minutes before trying to start the microwave cycle was the issue. I choose to leave the replaced magnetron as the original unit was discolored and felt the replacement was inexpensive insurance. I also learned that if the wave guide (which is a plastic/metallic composite material) that covers the opening to the magnetron is burnt or has metal melted to it as mine did it will act similar to the microwave having metal inside the enclosure and will continue to spark and basically melt the wave guide further. Replacing the wave guide was very easy as well.

I am very thankful for the knowledge base and support available from Partselect.com as they made this repair possible on my own. Thank you partselect.com