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Suddenly had no heat. All else worked fine. A deep odd hum sound.
This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
GE Profile Microwave Oven model JE1590. This microwave does not have an easy to replace bulb location and requires this custom bulb replacement part. The microwave cover must be removed to access the bulb replacement location. There are two black phillips screws on the right side of the microwave which must be removed and an additional 5 silver screws on the back. 2 of these screws are philips and 3 are tamper resistant torx, size TR20. If you do not have a TR20 you can either purchase an inexpensive bit set (recommended) or modify the screw heads with a Dremel (type) tool to allow them to be removed with a flat head screw driver. Once all the screws are removed, the oven cover will slide back and lift off. The bulb is located on the top, front, right side of microwave. There is a single philips head screw (pointing down) holding the bulb assembly in place. Remove the screw and the assembly lifts up. Gently slide the bulb connectors aways from the wires and replace with the new bulb. I recommend you wait to remove the old bulb until you have the replacement so you can see how the replacement will fit.
First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.
I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.
After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!
Had to remove microwave from the wall. Then disassemble entire top assembly to get to the part. Easy enough to replace after that. Then just reassemble and reinstall. About 2hrs. total
Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.
took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel
Turn the unit on its side and remove the bottom sheet metal panel...that will allow you to see the motor through a 4" x 4" perforated opening in a secondary panel. The cover of that opening can be removed by snipping 3 or 4 attachment points and removing one screw. Disconnect the electrical lead, unscrew the motor mounts, install the new motor and reconnect the electrical lead, and install the plastic "cog" which engages the turntable (align the D-shaft on the motor with the slot in the cog and press down firmly). Reinstall the opening cover. That's it! the toughest part was removing the unit from the cabinet.
Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.
Remove microwave and set on flat surface. Remove all screws on top. Remove all screws around back edge holding top on. Finally remove the screws on botton holding top on and remove top. On left side on top, remove 6 screws holding black channel in place. Also remove 3 screws holding metal top in place. Now lift black channel up and unplug 2 wires on cutout. Replace cutout and reinstall everything in reverse order. Worst part is taking microwave down and reinstalling.
Replacing the lamp is a no brainer. Getting to it is another story. The company clearly does not want people mucking around inside the case. The two lower rear screws securing the case cover are none tamper screws requiring some kind of special driver. Plus they are hardened metal. Lacking the special tool I had to chisel them out. Add to that the fact that the case and cover are very soft metal and you can imaging the mess I had on my hands. Luckily in the aftermath I was able to straighten every thing out during reassembly and the damage does not show too much. Beware, this is not as easy a job as you might think.
Oven shut down when TCO (thermostat) detected overheat. Once cutoff, it has to be replaced not reset.
The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.
Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.
This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.
One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.
Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.
Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.
All is well and working.
Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.
This is the second time replacing this fuse, last time was exactly one year ago. The first time I replaced it, I removed the oven from the wall & disassembled a number of things to reach the culprit. This time I left the oven mounted & was able to access the 2 grille mounting screws on the top of the grille & remove it. Next comes the black plastic air deflector held by two screws & is mounted in front & on the right, it is shown on the parts list just above part #1434. After removing it, remove the two silver cover screws in the front, this cover also doesn't have a part # but is shown to the right of part #1410. At this point you can lift this cover enough to access the fuse which is on the left & held in place by one tiny screw through the clamp at the top, (careful not to drop it when removing). PS: Don't forget to cut the power to the microwave before starting!
