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mICROWAVE WOULD NOT HEAT
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
To remove the outer cover of the microwave you have to unscrew 7 or 8 Phillips screws but most of them have "secure" type heads, so you need a driver with a hole in the middle, to fit over the pin on the screw head. I had one of those already, so it wasn't a problem. The metal cover is slid between rubberized strips on the front face of the enclosure and needs to be lifted and tugged out quite firmly in order to release it. Once the cover was removed, the bulb can be seen attached to the main frame of the microwave by a soft metal lug that can be bent back by hand to release the bulb and its integrated holder. The wiring harness simply pulls off of the bulb prongs and there you have the charred remains of the original bulb! I tried every appliance store and hardware store in Bismarck, but nobody had this part. When I typed in the serial number on the bulb, Partselect's site came up with exactly what I needed. Replacement was a simple reversal of the process, making sure not to over-tighten the sheet metal screws on the cabinet. Voila! We have light beams again. Thanks Partselect.
I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!
unplug oven from power remove glass turntable remove cabinet housing remove burnt out bulb order correct part reinstall new bulb reattach cabinet housing install glass turntable plug into power outlet confirm light bulb on
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps
Turntable Stopped Working/Display Timer Would Countdown But Not Heat
With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!
Microwave not turning on. All other functions operate
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor Leave unplugged overnight Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel GOOD LUCK
The drive shaft of the motor was broken and had to replace drive motor and roller guid
Cut the wire connection of access door on the bottom of the oven. Once access door was removed, I took the screw holding the drive motor in place, removed the wire connector and taped the connection to oven so that it did not drop into the bottom of the oven pulled motor out. Put new motor in, put connector back on motor secured the motor with the scre, put access door back in place put roller guide on the drive motor from inside of the oven and put plate on roller and turned it on for a test. it worked.
Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge. With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.
I assumed light was burned out and got a replacement bulb. Removed back and side screws with slight difficulity. Was not able to remove cover. The top front would not loosen. I tried every trick in my 80 year repertoire. I gave up and put it back together. I emailed PartSelect last week explaining the problem. So far no reply. I am sure I have the right model # and others seem to have little trouble removing the cover. I paid $85 + tax for the oven and it has worked well for about 8(?) years. From what I read here, I figured I could handle the bulb replacement. I'm just out the cost of the bulb and shipping and the oven still works. It would have been nice to have the light work again but we will just wait until it quits working and buy another inexpensive unit.
-unplug -remove top and front covers -unplug wire connectors from heating assembly -remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way -remove metal stand from dry -pull out heating assembly -install new one in reserve order
I used a phillips screw driver and a special type bit to undo the screws from the cabinet and found the light bulb and took the old one out and put the new one in and put it back together.
Door Switch went bad, Internal Fan would run every time you open the door
Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.