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Models > JDG1000A > Instructions

JDG1000A Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDG1000A parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JDG1000A
61-75 of 708
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Stopped running entirely.

  • Customer: Mark from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
My dryer stopped cold one day, we rushed out and bought a new one. Stuck with a broken dryer I thought I'd take a shot at fixing it (with zero experience). After a few minutes on the internet I found out that a clogged vent can cause it to overheat and blow the fuse. I opened it up and sure enough it was 100% clogged. I replaced the parts that came in the kit and after about 20min it was running like a champ. Now what do I do with the extra dryer?

No heat

  • Customer: Philip from La Palma, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

dryer not heating up

  • Customer: Richard from New Windsor, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

drum wouldn't turn

  • Customer: Lisa from Woodstock, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

Dryer Quit running

  • Customer: William from Marion, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First off I want to say I ordered my motor on Sunday night at 11:30 PM on veterans day and got the two day delivery. My part was sent out on that Monday (fed. holiday) and I received it Tuesday around 1:00 pm after I disconnected the wiring harness, took the blower fan C-clips off, unscrewed about 6 screws, and pulled the assembly apart I just done everything in reverse and replaced the new motor. I discovered that my thermostat fuse was blown so I ordered the High temp thermostat kit from here (two day delivery) on Wednesday at 10:30 PM and got the parts Friday at around 2:00 PM. After taking out four screws and four wires I replaced the fuse and high temp. set, pushed the start button to see if it worked and it started up like new. Now it heats twice as fast and everything doesn't have a light burnt smell. So dry time is faster (no more 80-90 min. cycle times), less dryer sheets (to cover smell) and all this added up to cost savings on electric bill and dryer sheets. It took a week to get my dryer back (because I just looked at the motor) but in the end I needed the fuse and motor. The quick turn around time to get the parts, the pictures to see if I had the right parts, and the ease of ordering the parts meant only one run to the laundry mat, and that wouldn't have happen if the dryer hadn't messed up on laundry day.

Rattling sound at front of the dryer and noticable longer time to dry clothes

  • Customer: Michael from Stockton, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of my repair was to move all the stuff (sh**) that had accumulated around the machine. We have had our Maytag dryer for 10+ years and a lot of things have been stacked or piled near it. Once the dryer was pulled out and the top could open, it was a matter of disconnecting the door light switch (just remove from clamp and pull out of the way),15 screws, 1 snap ring and a spring clamp. removal was simple, however installation was slightly harder because the new blower wheel's opening for the motors arbor was very tight. I had to use a hammer to drive it on the arbor, no hard hits but to hard to slip on. then another 10 mins to vaccum out all the lint. all together from start to finish was about 40 mins. If you have done any home repairs this job will be simple, hope this helps

blower wheel broken

  • Customer: Aaron from Santa Rosa, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged the dryer.
opened it up.
unscrewed the housing that was holding the blower wheel.
removed the broken blower wheel.
placed the blower wheel on the shaft.
got a socket wrench and an extender to tap the blower wheel into place. I put a towel over the socket wrench so as to be gentle on the blower wheel. I tapped it down until I could fee the grove on the shaft where the washer used to go to hold in the old blower wheel (the new one has enough grip on its own to stay put).
put the housing back on after doing a few spin tests to make sure the blower wheel was spinning freely.
did some spin tests after putting the housing back on.
reassembled the dryer, plugged it in.
turned it on to test again.
done.

Broken drive belt

  • Customer: Stanley from Flushing, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

No power, no light, Thermal/high limit fuses blown

  • Customer: William from Monroe, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Open the lid, replaced the small fuse on top( one wire at a time). Removed the heating element, then replaced the lower fuse and re-installed the heating element. That part of the job took 15 minutes. The fuses were blown because the plastic housing inside of the front panel was completely clogged. I took the two screws off holding the front panel on, then the two torque screws on the plastic housing. I cleaned a ton of lint out of the housing and re-assembled.

Noise when running and motor stop. Motor bearing overheated.

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Rogers City, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug dryer

Pick the top up at the front and swing up. Inside each side of the front is a screw to remove. Do not forget to unhook the door switch wires. Pull the drum. Push belt off as you remove the drum. Works better to reach in at the lower right and take the belt off of the tighener first.

After you clean out any lint in area unplug the wires from the motor and snap off the hold down clamp on the back bearing.

The blower needs to be released fromt he shaft. The snap ring in front of the blower needs to be taken off. This can be done with a screw driver by prying off the flat spot on the shaft. However, a snap ring pliers would be better. The front of the blower housing must come off as the blower must come off. There is a snap ring behind the blower that must come off also.

The biggest problem I had was removing the front motor bearing housing from the plastic blower housing. It is easy once you see that the front bearing housing is held in by four tabs in the plastic housing. By rotating the front bearing housing 90 degrees you will be able to pull it out.

From there just reverse your action. The belt went on ok. I found by putinng the belt on the drum and the motor drive pully first I was able to reach in an put the belt over the tighener.

Motor froze up

  • Customer: Randy from Loganville, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First lift the top and remove 2 screws holding the front panel on, at each top corner. Release the door switch from its clip (or disconnect the wires). Remove the front panel by tilting out and then lifting it up off the bottom tabs. Remove the belt from the motor by releasing the tensioner. Then lift the drum out. Remove the front blower cover, then remove the tensioner by first removing the spring, then pull the tensioner out toward the back. Remove the strap on the back of the motor near the pulley. It takes a little effort to get the strap off. Remove the 3 bolts holding the blower case (with the motor still attached. Remove the motor wires, then lift the motor and blower case out. Next remove the clip holding the blower fan on and remove the fan. It may be stubborn so be patient and slowly work it off. Remove the next clip behind the fan. Then remove the motor from the blower case by turning it counter clockwise (as viewed from the motor side). Installation is the reverse.

Part cracked and clothes were getting caught

  • Customer: Cathy from Dallastown, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on the floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.

No Power

  • Customer: James from Berlin Hts., OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
(Electric) I opened the lid and propped it back on wall. The first piece was located all the way in the back mounted toward you. Easy enough. When it came to the thermal fuse, it was a bit trickier. It's located on the right side of the heating element wall. There is a screw straight on top of the wall. Mine was covered in lint, hence the thermal repair work:) Take the screw all the way out. The fuse is removed by lifting out the thermal fuse mounting bracket. Nothing special holding it in place. Just put the new one in the same way the old one came out. It was a bit difficult to wiggle the bracket back in, but I kept playing enough and it finally lost the battle. Put the screw back in, taking care to make sure it threads on top of the bracket to secure it against the heater element wall. Worked for me! Thanks everyone.

Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle

  • Customer: Rob from Henderson, NV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

Dryer not Drying

  • Customer: Manuel from Jurupa Valley, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.
All Instructions for the JDG1000A
61-75 of 708