Models > JDG1000A > Instructions

JDG1000A Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDG1000A parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JDG1000A
61-75 of 708
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Dryer would not come on

  • Customer: Max from Wylie TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Verified power to the dryer with a volt meter. Identified the high limit fuses under the top cover. I used an ohm meter to determine the fuse located on the heater housing assembly was bad. The fuse located at the top (blue label) was not bad but I changed it since a new one was sent in the kit. Reassembled the dryer and it has been working ever since. Found the problem on a Monday and ordered the part. Received the part on Wednesday and the problem was solved. Cost me about $31. Would have been triple that if a repairman would have been called. Thanks PartsSelect

dryer not heating up

  • Customer: Richard from New Windsor NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle

  • Customer: Rob from Henderson NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

drum wouldn't turn

  • Customer: Lisa from Woodstock GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

Dryer Quit running

  • Customer: William from Marion VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First off I want to say I ordered my motor on Sunday night at 11:30 PM on veterans day and got the two day delivery. My part was sent out on that Monday (fed. holiday) and I received it Tuesday around 1:00 pm after I disconnected the wiring harness, took the blower fan C-clips off, unscrewed about 6 screws, and pulled the assembly apart I just done everything in reverse and replaced the new motor. I discovered that my thermostat fuse was blown so I ordered the High temp thermostat kit from here (two day delivery) on Wednesday at 10:30 PM and got the parts Friday at around 2:00 PM. After taking out four screws and four wires I replaced the fuse and high temp. set, pushed the start button to see if it worked and it started up like new. Now it heats twice as fast and everything doesn't have a light burnt smell. So dry time is faster (no more 80-90 min. cycle times), less dryer sheets (to cover smell) and all this added up to cost savings on electric bill and dryer sheets. It took a week to get my dryer back (because I just looked at the motor) but in the end I needed the fuse and motor. The quick turn around time to get the parts, the pictures to see if I had the right parts, and the ease of ordering the parts meant only one run to the laundry mat, and that wouldn't have happen if the dryer hadn't messed up on laundry day.

Rattling sound at front of the dryer and noticable longer time to dry clothes

  • Customer: Michael from Stockton CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of my repair was to move all the stuff (sh**) that had accumulated around the machine. We have had our Maytag dryer for 10+ years and a lot of things have been stacked or piled near it. Once the dryer was pulled out and the top could open, it was a matter of disconnecting the door light switch (just remove from clamp and pull out of the way),15 screws, 1 snap ring and a spring clamp. removal was simple, however installation was slightly harder because the new blower wheel's opening for the motors arbor was very tight. I had to use a hammer to drive it on the arbor, no hard hits but to hard to slip on. then another 10 mins to vaccum out all the lint. all together from start to finish was about 40 mins. If you have done any home repairs this job will be simple, hope this helps

Broken drive belt

  • Customer: Stanley from Flushing NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

Noise when running and motor stop. Motor bearing overheated.

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Rogers City MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug dryer

Pick the top up at the front and swing up. Inside each side of the front is a screw to remove. Do not forget to unhook the door switch wires. Pull the drum. Push belt off as you remove the drum. Works better to reach in at the lower right and take the belt off of the tighener first.

After you clean out any lint in area unplug the wires from the motor and snap off the hold down clamp on the back bearing.

The blower needs to be released fromt he shaft. The snap ring in front of the blower needs to be taken off. This can be done with a screw driver by prying off the flat spot on the shaft. However, a snap ring pliers would be better. The front of the blower housing must come off as the blower must come off. There is a snap ring behind the blower that must come off also.

The biggest problem I had was removing the front motor bearing housing from the plastic blower housing. It is easy once you see that the front bearing housing is held in by four tabs in the plastic housing. By rotating the front bearing housing 90 degrees you will be able to pull it out.

From there just reverse your action. The belt went on ok. I found by putinng the belt on the drum and the motor drive pully first I was able to reach in an put the belt over the tighener.

Motor froze up

  • Customer: Randy from Loganville GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First lift the top and remove 2 screws holding the front panel on, at each top corner. Release the door switch from its clip (or disconnect the wires). Remove the front panel by tilting out and then lifting it up off the bottom tabs. Remove the belt from the motor by releasing the tensioner. Then lift the drum out. Remove the front blower cover, then remove the tensioner by first removing the spring, then pull the tensioner out toward the back. Remove the strap on the back of the motor near the pulley. It takes a little effort to get the strap off. Remove the 3 bolts holding the blower case (with the motor still attached. Remove the motor wires, then lift the motor and blower case out. Next remove the clip holding the blower fan on and remove the fan. It may be stubborn so be patient and slowly work it off. Remove the next clip behind the fan. Then remove the motor from the blower case by turning it counter clockwise (as viewed from the motor side). Installation is the reverse.

Part cracked and clothes were getting caught

  • Customer: Cathy from Dallastown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on the floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.

No Power

  • Customer: James from Berlin Hts. OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
(Electric) I opened the lid and propped it back on wall. The first piece was located all the way in the back mounted toward you. Easy enough. When it came to the thermal fuse, it was a bit trickier. It's located on the right side of the heating element wall. There is a screw straight on top of the wall. Mine was covered in lint, hence the thermal repair work:) Take the screw all the way out. The fuse is removed by lifting out the thermal fuse mounting bracket. Nothing special holding it in place. Just put the new one in the same way the old one came out. It was a bit difficult to wiggle the bracket back in, but I kept playing enough and it finally lost the battle. Put the screw back in, taking care to make sure it threads on top of the bracket to secure it against the heater element wall. Worked for me! Thanks everyone.

METAL TO METAL CONTACT AND RUBBING NOISE

  • Customer: Mark from East Tawas MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
TOOK THE FRONT OF DRYER APART REMOVED BELT AND DRUM REPLACED MY PARTS AND REASSEMBLED.

No heat

  • Customer: Philip from La Palma CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

NO HEAT

  • Customer: NICHOLAS from PARMA OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I SUSPECTED A FAULTY IGNITER AND DISCONNECTED THE CABLE TO THE IGNITER AND MEASURED THE RESISTANCE OF THE IGNITER AND FOUND IT TO BE 70 OHMS THEN I CHECKED THE VOLTAGE AT THE SAME CABLE TOWARDS THE POWER SOURCE AND FOUND IT TO BE 25 VOLTS AC WHICH SHOULD BE 120 VOLTS AC. NEXT I CHECKED THE RADIANT FLAME SENSOR AND FOUND IT TO BE OPEN (IT SHOULD BE A CLOSED CIRCUIT WHEN COLD). I REMOVED THE FLAME SENSOR (WITH THE POWER OFF) USING A SMALL BOX WRENCH AND FOUND A BROKEN LEAD. REPLACING THE FLAME SENSOR SOLVED THE PROBLEM.

Dryer got hot then heat would shut off

  • Customer: Douglas from Fernley NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
All Instructions for the JDG1000A
61-75 of 708