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Leak in motor shaft seal
We had had a slow leak on our dishwasher for some time. We were also getting a film left on the dishes and they did not appear clean. Eventually the leak got worse and I had to find the problem. It turned out that in addition to the motor shaft seal leaking, the heating element was out and the installer had done a really bad job, with leaks in the fittings and the wiring not installed properly.
I tried to get the parts locally but they were not in stock and needed a week to arrive. With family coming to visit, I ordered the parts from Parts Select on Monday and they arrived Tuesday. That afternoon, I had everything back together and it is working great.
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Dishwasher not getting dishes clean
Piece of cake. I panicked for a minute before I realized that there was a threaded brass 90 in the inlet valve. It looked like it was the wrong part for a minute. Once I got the 90 reinstalled in the new valve, I had it back together in 10 minutes. It seems to be working better.
No Water caused soap to not dispense & no clean dishes.
I took off the front bottom panel for an easy access. The valve is located on the left. Shut off water to the dishwasher. Remove the bracket that holds the valve. Remove hoses and 2 wires on the valve switch. Install new valve by revesing the steps above.
turn off breaker turn off water supply line note wire color locations on notepad disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers) disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench) disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp) remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver) remove ground jumper from old valve remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers) clean open end of pipe ell (file) apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads install pipe ell on new valve reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation reinstall ground jumper install new valve assembly in dishwasher reconnect hose and hose clamp reconnect inlet line reconnect spade lugs turn on supply line, check for leaks turn on breaker start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow done!
First I removed the screws that held the door together. I then unplugged all the wires from the back and removed the screws holding the LED panel in and unsnapped it from the clips. Just reverse the process putting the new one in. Worked great.
removed old one left wires attached until i took them off and replaced with new board one at a time. repair was easy. repair company wanted 300.00 to do what i did for the cost of part 149.00. it took more time to remove the screws in the door then it did to install the control board.
removed the agitator,and a couple of baskets til i was able to gain access to the pump impeller & pump housing. i replace those parts,put back together,all works great now
from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.
1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model) 2) Tipped it onto its back 3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver) 4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers) 5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring. 6) Removed broken link 7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door. 8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers. 9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.
This was really easy. I just took out the two screws securing the unit to the counter top and slid it out about 6 inches. Broken plastic spring linkage was obvious and easily accessible. I didn't know there was one on each side, I would probably have went ahead and ordered both and replaced them at the same time.
