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Bake Element burned out
Ordered new bake element and received in two days and was exact replacement. removed the two screws holding the old element mounting plate and attempted to carefully pull out the old element far enough to disconnect electrical house wire from the element and hang on to. However the old element came out without the house wire connected. After the newbake element plate was mounted to the inside of the oven the range had to pulled out to reconnect the house wire. Step one shut electric power off to range
1) Shut off power to oven 2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door 3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets 4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening 5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven 6) Unplugged bad thermostat connector 7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven 8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven 9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven 10) Reverse steps 1-7
Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.
Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!
Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.
Just remove the front control panel, remove old part, plug in new part. I must say, I had a choice of two parts. One part cost 120.00 the other 56.00. I figured I would cut to the chase and order the expensive part cuz Murphy's law would say it was the part needed. I was wrong. I ordered the cheep part and BINGO! We have our stove back. PS in Canada this fix would had cost me 750.00. At any rate we saved big!! Thanks PartSelect! Bev and Bob
The control knob on the burner stopped allowing you to adjust temperature and would on turn the burner off when turning counter clockwise
I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I removed the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process
