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Burner terminal block unstable due to corrosion; potential electrical fire hazard
This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.
I had to replace my drip pans as well as the heating elements on all four burners
Very simple to replace, pull off the old element and push in the new one. Not only was it super easy, part select was so easy to work with. I had placed the order wrong, and immediately called customer service. They cancelled my order and placed the new one, refunding my money within 2 business days for the wrong order. Courteous, friendly and prompt. I would highly recommend them! Oh, I forgot to mention that the parts actually fit perfectly, unlike drip pans bought elsewhere. Thank you, Sincerely, Cindy
New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring! Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up! Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up! Works fine! Now all burners work again!
First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.
Lightning had knocked out the oven \/clock control
I removed the back to gain access to the control board. Then I unplugged each wire on the old control and plugged it in on the new control - one at a time. Then removed the old control, removed the face from the old control and put it on the new one. Next I installed the new control and replaced the back. Job completed - oven works great.
Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com
Still need an other nut to keep broiler support inplcae. Support bar did not come with new screws so I must locate one new one.
I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.
Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel 2) Slide out Range from wall 3) Unplug Range 4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket 5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb 6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard. 7) Place new socket into mounting flange 8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back. 9) Screw in new light bulb from front 10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place 11) Replace back panel 11) Plug in range 12) Slide range back to original position 13) Turn on power Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
Old infinite switch WB21X36771 broke...heating element stopped heating
1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch. 2. Pulled old switch out. 3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part. 4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable. 5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not. 6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square. 7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop. 8. Hope this helps.
Relay in control sticking - 2nd replacement in 10 yrs
Pulled stove and unplugged electric cable. Unscrewed the top rear panel. Made a diagram of the wiring (with colors) to match with the new control. Unscrewed the 4 screws holding the control. Removed the plastic faceplate that was on old control and matched it on the new one (in the correct orientation so that it was not upside-down when placed on stove - so you can see the writing is right-side up from the front of the stove. I then screwed it in place and attached the wires following the diagram. I made sure that all the wiring was in the correct place and not pinched anywhere or touching other items. I the put the rear panel back in, plugged the electric cable back in and pushed the stove back in place slowly and made sure that the electric cable was flat on the floor so that the bottom drawer would not touch it when it was opened and closed. The END ! Simple.
