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JBP26AY6 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JBP26AY6
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I needed new surface elements & burner bowls
This was about the simplest fix I've ever done. Just pulled off the old surface elements & burner bowls, wiped down the range top, and put in the new parts. Perfect fit. No problems at all. $$ well spent. ParsSelect shipped quickly, and they arrived well packaged. A+ experience all around. Thanks PartSelect. JA, San Ramon, CA
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
  • John from San Ramon, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
492 of 502 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burner bowls needed replacement
Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Tom from North Prairie, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
484 of 501 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burner Bowl Needed Replaced
Removed burner element and put in bowl
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Stephen from Knoxville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
521 of 685 people found this instruction helpful.
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The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
112 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
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The stove's bowl were burned and a mess.
Pulled out burner and put new bowls in. Looks like a new stove!
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Martin from Tewksbury, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
219 of 436 people found this instruction helpful.
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Replaced old drip bowls
Took 5 minutes to replace the 4 bowls. Ordered the bowls one day & they arrived the next day All went perfect.
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • John from Eowell, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
217 of 436 people found this instruction helpful.
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Front burner would not heat up
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT
  • Scott from Olathe, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
78 of 111 people found this instruction helpful.
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bottom of heating element corroded
PartsSelect is the BEST!! This is the second time I've had to use them on home appliances. Their web site was easy to use, shipping was fast, prices competitive and instructions very easy to follow. I would not hesitate to use them again. Very happy with service from the get-go.
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
  • B. from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
66 of 129 people found this instruction helpful.
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The oven gasket was leaking
Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks
Parts Used:
Oven Door Gasket
  • Joe from Broadview Heights, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
41 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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Replacement of Coils
Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.
Parts Used:
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
  • Joseph from South Plainfield, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
35 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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8"burner would only heat on high
First I made sure the power was off then I removed the back cover. I took the new switch in hand and took one wire at a time from the old switch and put them on the new switch. I removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one. Made test to be sure it worked. Replaced back cover, job finished.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT
  • Johnnie from Cheraw, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
35 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven sensor was not holding temperature range.
Per the instructions included with part.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor Kit
  • CHARLA from NEW BRAUNFELS, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
44 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lower Element Was Not Heating Up. Interchanged Top Broiler With Lower Element To Confirm That Lower Lement Was Working. Posted Problem On Forum. Received Reply To Change Out Electric Clock Control. Upon Doing So Lower Was Back On Line. Thanks
Upon removing the back panel of range with screwdriver to gain access to elelctric clock control. Unit was taken out with the use of a 1/4'' nutdriver. After following included instrucitons with replacement part. Part was an unpluged/pluged in operation. Works great. No service technician needed. Thanks gain.
Parts Used:
Electronic Clock Control
  • JERRY from MEMPHIS, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
29 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
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The old heating element on the oven bottom burned out.
First, I loosened the 2 bolts that held the old element in place and pulled it out from the oven back. There were 2 wires attached - black on the left, yellow on the right. The wires were easy to transfer from the old element to the new one. Then, it was just a matter of replacing the 2 bolts and now the oven works well.
Parts Used:
Bake Element with Male Push-On Terminals
  • Katherine from Shamong, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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Large burner would operate on high setting only.
1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
Parts Used:
INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT
  • Ernest from Bellevue, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JBP26AY6
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