Models > JB900KK5CC > Instructions

JB900KK5CC General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JB900KK5CC
46 - 60 of 275
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
outside element burned out
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs.
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • peter from westfield, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Bake element broke into pieces
Disconnect electric at panel box. Pull oven out. Remove 5 screws from rear panel. Pull off the 2 clips at the tips of the old element which is located about 2/3 down the back side of the oven. Remove broken element from inside the oven and slide new element in place. Push 2 clips firmly on the ends of the new element. Replace back cover. Turn power on. Test oven. Slide oven back in place.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Rita from LYMAN, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • emmett from rocky mount, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Burnt Smell
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
Parts Used:
SWITCH SPDT HIGH AMP
  • Eugene from Hilton Head, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
8 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Burner element was burnt
It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Chandra from Naugaeuck, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Element burned out while cooking.
Pulled out the range from the wall and unplugged it. (A good time to clean up the cabinet sides & floor.) Found the 2 screws under the cooktop by opening the oven door. Removed the screws and raised the cooktop -- it's hinged in the back. Propped up the cooktop with a spare piece of lumber. (I would have expected to find a fold-out rod to prop it up -- a suggestion to GE.) Noted the positions of the 4 spade lug connectors and removed them gently with a pair of needlenose pliers. Removed the 2 screws from the clips holding the element in place & removed the element. Installation was the exact reverse: clips, spade lugs, front screws. (Then I removed the blue masking tape I had put over the burner knob so we wouldn't try to use the burner while I was waiting for the part to arrive.) Plugged it in & pushed it back in place. Good to go! 30 minutes including the surprise cleanup.
Parts Used:
ELEMENT RADIANT 6-IN
  • Robert from Estero, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The front right outer element was defective.
My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Peter from Abbeville, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The dual burnner had somthing drop on it and it went out
I pulled out the range from the wall unplugged it from the wall then i opened the oven door and removed the two small screws on the front off the range and lifted the glass top and supported it with a 1/2" X 18inc wooden dowel, then i removed the two burner retaining screws with a small Phillips screw driver and removed the wires from the burner,
then i replaced the burner with the new one and reconnected the wires and placed the burner in to the two retaining clips and then tightened the two screws then i removed the wooden dowel and installed the two screws on the front bottom side on the range then i plugged in the range in and tested the burner then put the range back against the wall.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Thad from Layton, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Control awitch was bad
Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.
Parts Used:
Infinite Control Switch
  • Gary from CLEARWATER, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W
  • Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Inside burner would no longer heat
I went online and ordered the part after reading other people's repair experiences, confident that I could do it because the part was quite pricey. First, be sure you're circuit breaker to your range is off. Next, open the oven door and locate and remove two screws with a socket, that are just under the top surface which will allow you to lift up the glass top which is actually hinged...no need to pull the range out. Securely prop up the glass surface area and the burners are exposed. With a marker, mark where each color wire goes on the burner you are going to remove and also mark where the two holding brackets are. This way you can reference the locations to connect to the new one. Carefully remove the wires and brackets and install new burner with brackets and connections. Close up the top, replace two screws, turn on breaker, and if there were no other faulty components,it'll work great. P.S Be gentle getting the very snug wires off. Good Luck
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • John from CHARLESTOWN, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The bake element burned out. The gasket was dirty and not working well.
Replacing the gasket is easy and requires no tools. Pull out the ends that are just inserted in their slots. Then work your way around the door pulling out the little metal clips from their holes. Replace the new gasket the same way.

It's even easier to do if you remove the door first and place it on a table--but it's heavy. To remove the door, flip up the hinge clips--you might need a flat screwdriver to do this if they are old and stiff as mine were. Then close the door almost all the way--you'll feel a stopping point-- and pull up. It comes right out--but again, it's heavy.

Replacing the bake element is not much harder. It's easier to do with the door off, but not impossible with the door on. First, pull out the range and unplug it. Then, remove the hex screws holding the bake element against the back wall. The element has two electrical contacts that insert into clips at the ends of wires. Pull out the wires a bit to give yourself some slack, then pull the contacts out of the clips. Insert the clips from the new element into the wires and replace the screws.

If the wires get lost behind the back wall of the oven, it's not a big deal. Just remove the narrow central panel on the back (it has six hex screws) and push the wires back through the wall opening. Then replace the back panel and install the new element.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V Range Oven Door Gasket
  • Mark from WATKINSVILLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Wife broke the interior window by splashing water on it while heated to 450.
Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.
Parts Used:
Window Pack Assembly
  • Dennis from GRETNA, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken inner window
Watched video
Parts Used:
Window Pack Assembly
  • randy from LORETTO, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the JB900KK5CC
46 - 60 of 275