JB900KK2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the screws from the underside of the stovetop, lifted up the top, propped it up to keep it from falling (using a large book), and removed the old burner by unscrewing it from the top and removing the wire connections. I then screwed the new burner into the top, and attached the wires back to the burner, dropped the top down (gently and carefully, of course), and screwed the top back down to the rest of the stove. It was fairly quick and painless. Although, putting the stove back into his position was not easy, but that was no fault of the stove!!

First I searched for the part here and I had a slightly hard time finding the correct element on the site.
Then I read the comments of the others and the issues they faced.
I unplugged the range and pulled it out a bit from the wall. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place and put them where I would not lose them. Then I gently maneuved the element out and placed a clothespin on each of the wires to keep them from going back in and then disconnected the wires from the element using a pair of needlenose pliers.

At this point I had to gently bend the new element back into shape as it had been bent during shipping. Then I connected the wires and slid the element into place and installed the two screws.

Double checked to make sure everything was ok plugged in the range, said a quick prayer and set the temperature to 300. When it got to 300 the element shut off and I was happy that the element did not take any other parts with it.

after removing the two screws that are just inside the oven, I propted the top open with the box that the part came in. I drew and labeled the wires as I took them off using a color coding. next I removed the two clips that held the burner in place and marked on the new burner exactly where the clips were attached. Replacing the clips was possibly the hardest part of the whole operation. When you replace the burner, don't forget to replace the insulation pad that is stuck one the metal where the conections are. I missed this and had to reopen the stovetop and slid it on after I was finished. Otherwise it went pretty smooth.

Very simple repair. Remove two screws to lift the range top. Then remove the two screws holding the element in place. Disconnect the wires from the old element, connect the wires to the new element. Reverse the procedure and you are done. Total time is anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes.

Turn off power to cook top. Remove 2 screws that hold the cook top to countertop. Lift complete cook top from counter and place diagonally across opening. Remove 10 screws that hold glass top to the component cabinet. Make a diagram of wiring to element. Disconnect wires. Remove 2 mounting brackets from bottom of old element and position them on new element and screw tight. Wire new element as diagrammed earlier. Replace glass top on component cabinet and reinstall 10 screws. Place unit back into counter opening and secure with 2 straps. Turn power back on. Stand back and enjoy your accomplishment.

Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the extra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

Performed repair using a video for reference.

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

In this case I had to pull the range out to disconnect the power and also to remove the plate covering the electrical connectors. This was the only way to reconnect the elements terminals since the wires were too short to do it inside the oven. Undo the 2 screws holding the element in place from inside the oven to remove and install the new one before connecting the terminals from the back. Put back the rear cover and reconnect the power.

Would have helped it I knew the push on terminals of the bake element were visible and accessible to slide the terminals on from the back side of the stove in the beginning. There is not enough slack in the the terminal wires to connect them from the oven side, so you will have to open the back panel to retrieve a wire anyway. SO, CONNECT THE BAKE ELEMENT TO THE OVEN WALL FIRST ! Then, open the back panel of the stove and simply slide the terminals on the exposed slide terminals of the bake element.

I am a 62 year old woman with NO experience fixing appliances However I didn't have the money for a repairman so I ordered the part and googled "Hiw to change a heating element in a GE range". All the instructions were there and now my oven is working perfectly. I even posted on Facebook for my female friends to encourage them to do repairs themselves. What a GREAT feeling.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!