Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door. - place door on work surface with the outside facing down. - remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top. - Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside. - There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside. - Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed. - Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding. - Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window. - Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom) - Set the new window in its place. - Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane. - Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door. - Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom. - Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door. All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
Burner kept heating even when it was turned off, needed switch replacement
1) REMOVE ELECTRIC PLUG FROM OUTLET. 2) Pull oven away from wall. 3) Remove the 3 machine screws holding in the top piece of sheet metal. 4) remove top piece of back sheet metal 5) pull knob of the front of the switch. 6) remove the two screws holding the switch to the front of stove. 7) remove wires (needle nose is helpful) one at a time and put them in the same location on the new switch. 8) put new switch into location on the stove and screw in the two front screws. 9) replace sheet metal on the back and screw in the 3 machine screws that hold it in. 10) plug in stove and move it back into position 11) put the knob back on the front and test it to make sure it works ok. 12) be sure to remove power if you need to do open the stove again to correct anything.
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.