JB500*W6 General Electric Range - Instructions

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

Easiest repair I ever did. Killed the circuit breaker, then removed the oven door, loosened the 2 hex nuts with a nut driver, pulled the old element out a few inches, loosened the nuts holding the wire to the element. I then put the new element in place, connected the wires to the element, pushed it back in to the insulation, and then replaced the nuts on the cover piece. Put the circuit breaker back on, and done!

I have a 22 year old GE double oven with a range top that I can't live without. I do alot of cooking, baking, and my share of entertaining. To replace this oven I would have to sacrifice having 2 ovens...or remodel my kitchen and reposition their location. So when something goes wrong with this oven I cringe. It needs to keep ticking for another 10 years. A friend recommended PartSelect. looked on line and found the part resembling mine. I called just to confirm the part was correct, and found out it was not. I looked up the part number the said was correct but the shape was wrong. I order it anyhow and when it arrived it was what I needed. The picture on the website was inconsistant with the part number. So I'm really glad I called and spoke to a rep. The part arrived in 4 days and the next day I installed it, needing only one tool. Doing it myself saved me a few hundred dollars and my oven works great again. And their price was lower than a local parts dealer. I added PartSelect to my favorite list for future needs! Thanks!

On Friday, the day after Thanksgiving, I placed an order for two replacement burners, four new pans, and two receptacle ASM's for my 30+ year old GE stove. I didn't know the exact model number, but because of your very informative website, I was able to look at the parts and find what I needed.

Much to my amazement, the parts arrived the next day (24 hours after ordering!). I didn't pay for overnight or weekend delivery. You quickly fulfilled the order and shipped it the same day. It really was a great surprise to see the parts so quickly.

To top it off, the installation was so simple that my 3 and 5 year olds helped out (after disconnecting the power first!) the installation was so straight forward, that my 5 year old unscrewed the nut that held the receptacle in place while the 3 year old unwrapped the new pans. All I needed was a Phillips head screw driver and a open ended wrench to complete the job. I replaced all the parts and had a stove that looked brand new (and worked) within 10 minutes.

After 5 years of fighting a stove the intermittently worked, worrying about where to get parts, and wondering if I needed to purchase a new stove, it is all over. My wife is happy, I am happy, and my kids are happy that they had a fun Saturday project to help dad with. If I only knew about PartSelect 5 years ago, we would have been cooking worry free, knowing the stove is actually heating up.

The procedure was simple! Here is what I did:
1.) disconnected the power by lifting up the lever under the stove that held the power cable.
2.) Removed the burners by simply pulling them out of the socket, and removed the drip pans.
3.) used a wrench set to remove the screw holding the ceramic terminal block in place
4.) removed the wires from the back of the terminal block with a Phillips head screw driver. On one of the burners, the terminal block assembly was so damaged, I used the pliers to break the ceramic and then held onto the receiving terminal to loosen the screw.
5.) connected the new terminal block. I made sure by simply screwing on the wires. I made sure I clipped in the new plastic covering that protected the screws.
6.) re-attached the terminal assembly block to the stove top. BE CAREFUL so as to not over-tighten, you can strip the screw
7.) installed the new drip pans.
8.) re-connected the power by simply plugging in the main power and re-camping the quick-disconnect.
9.) Checked the stove to make sure everything worked.
10.) Cooked dinner!

I studied the drawings on the instruction sheet off and on for about 3 hours. I'm 76 and my memory and ability to identify the relevant parts of the old and replacement clock as depicted on the drawings aren't what they were a few decades ago. I took my time studying this until I was confident that I knew which wires needed to go on which terminals on the new clock module. It took me a while to figure out which side (left or right) of the drawing for the old and new clocks were at the end of the module and which side was adjacent to the rest of the module. Careful study of the drawings and examinations of the modules cleared this up. It also took me some time to figure out if the top or bottom of the drawings as depicted on the paper matched up with the top and bottom of the modules when viewed from the front of the oven. After this became clear removal of the wires from the old module (I labeled all of them with masking tape, for example, as L1, L2, common or neutral, Output 1 and Output 2) and placement on the new module was quite straight forward. I then covered all bare wires with the rubber insulators or electricians tape. However, the clock didn't light up when the panel was reassembled and the power was turned back on. I hired a local appliance technician to examine my work. He found 2 wires touching that weren't supposed to be touching where they plugged into the module. After separating them and turning on the power the clock has worked perfectly. The metal bracket on my oven worked with the new clock module. I didn't have to use any of the new brackets that came with the new clock. A few other manageable problems: I needed a torx screwdriver I didn't have to remove 3 screws holding the panel holding the oven dials and clock module on to the oven. A neighbor provided the needed screwdriver. I cut my index finger when removing the black knob attached to the lever used to lock the oven during cleaning. A band aid stopped the bleeding and allowed work to continue. The spring fitting over the end of the lever that wedges the black handle in place cut my finger. I'll use a pliers or protect my fingers with a towel the next time when removing this knob. I had a few hiccups doing this task but am thoroughly pleased with the end result.

First turned off the circuit breaker. The two screws holding the element in place were removed. Next the element was pulled out about 3 inches. Wires were disconnected. Old element was removed. Wires were then attached to the new replacement element. The element was then re-attached to back of oven, using the two screws. Circuit breaker turned to on. About 5 minutes. Took longer to change the flashlight batteries!

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned the electricity back on and the oven heated right up.

Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.