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Heating element not warming up
Before you start, make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped, which can explain element not heating. In my case, the toaster element was ok, which tells us that the oven is receiveing electric current. 1) Take the grills out so you have free access 2) Remove the door - this model just pull it up to let it free 3) remove the 2 screws securing the element on backwall of the oven and gently pull the element out 4) if you have a multimeter: a) set it to AC, greater than 300 V b) use your alligator clips, attach the clips to the contacts of the element c) briefly turn the oven on: expect to read between 230 and 260 volts 5) remove the screws securing the old element 6) install the new element; 7) secure the element back to the backwall 8) turn the oven briefly on and feel the heating element: should come warm pretty quic; - Job done -
When you remove the screws securing the wire to the old element, make sure the wires are not cracked, or interrupted.
Otherwise, a real simple and easy fix.
Specs of this element are what I missed but here they are: Resitence : 25.5 Ohms Volts: 230 - 260Volst Power : 2050 to 2650 Watts The power depends on the voltage, so make sure you dont have it too low (less than 220 ) or too much (yeah, 260V is nearing upper limits)
I removed the screw holding the tilt mechanism to the range top. Removed the clips holding the block together. Disconnected the two power leads on the old burner and replaced with the new burner. Closed the block around the leads. Screwed the tilt mechanism back to the range top and that was it!
burner would not lay flat against surface of range.
Removed two clips that held the ceramic insulators in place. Removed two screws that held conductors to the burner. Replaced screws onto new burner unit, replaced ceramic insulators. Fastened clip to burner onto the range. Turned burner on and it worked great. Thank you for your quick responce to my order.
Old infinite switch WB21X36771 broke...heating element stopped heating
1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch. 2. Pulled old switch out. 3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part. 4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable. 5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not. 6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square. 7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop. 8. Hope this helps.
Bake element stopped working. Oven was not getting hot.
Used socket set to remove bolts holding the elements in place, then used a screw driver to remove the wires from the elements. Replaced with new elements, screwed in the wires and reattached the elements to the wall with the bolts. It was easy, it was just a small space to work in.
Bake element failed - it kind of broke open in one spot.
Due to this wall oven being vintage 1972, I decided to replace the broil element along with the bake element that had actually failed. The repair was pretty straight forward as seen on the videos, altough it can be somewhat tight to use screw drivers or nut drivers with long handles. You may find that shorty screw drivers or a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and appropriate socket are easier to work with. There were two things that I was cautious about. The first was to be very gentle with the power wires since I didn't know what condition their insulation was in. I tried not to scrape them on the sheet metal opening as I pulled them gently out through the oven insulation. Secondly, I was very, very careful in moving the oven temperature sensor probe out of the way so I could undo the broil element. Before I started the job, I had learned that this probe isn't a separate piece part, it is part of the entire THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY for the stove and it's not readily available. Furthermore, this assembly costs $250 to $350 !!!! The only negative with this job was that the old broil element has some kind of heat resistant material on the rear of the plate that attaches it to the oven wall. This old material fell apart during disassembly. I kind of pieced it back together during assembly, but I would have liked to have been told I needed this piece (since there wasn't an exploded parts view on the web for me to look at)or a new piece of this material should have been supplied as part of the broil element.
Removed the plug from wall socket. Removed door to oven by lifting it straight up while partially open, in locked position. Remove Baking shelves. Removed 2 screws @ the back of element where it goes into the ovens back wall with a nut wrench and gently pull the element towards you until wires are exposed. Using a flat blade screw driver hold on to the end of the element near the end with the screw and support it as you un screw the wire so the end of the element does not bend as you turn the screw. After both wires are removed, remove the old element. Install the new Element in reverse. Very Easy!
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. connected the wires to the new element. pushed the element back in place the screwed it back to the back of the stove.
Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory. Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel
Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the metal correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.
Shut power off. Removed two outer screws, pulled heating element forward and removed two more screws. Ordered part and it arrived in three days. Installed in reverse order of removal. Easy fix. Cost was reasonable.
The small element blew out consequently shorting out the infinite switch.
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range. My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires. Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
Knob/switch would not turn right front burner on at all!
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
