Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch * When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.
Removed the drum and belt assembly.
Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.
Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.
Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.
Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.
Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place
Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.
Reinstalled the lower front panel.
Checked dryer operation OK.
This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Noisy and blower wheel spin without turn motor shaft
Removed lower panel, door assembly, belt and drum. Removed blower wheel cover. Used dremmel tool to cut plastic from metal that attaches the blower to the motor shaft. Used adjustable wrench to keep motor shaft from turning. Used vise grip to clamp on metal and turned to loosen blower wheel. Attached new blower and re-assembled.
I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.
The dryer had been squeaking for at least 6 months when it finally became painfully loud and unacceptable
. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.
I watched the repair video and followed the instruction given to replace the belt. The instructions were easy to follow and to the point. The one thing that was not covered was to vacuum the interior prior to closing the dryer up.
Well tried to find this simple part around Columbus and even maytag website no luck.Parts select had it to go and arrived earlier than expected.Fixed it less than 5 minutes works great.taken longer to put the light bulb back in,Really like the accuracy and quick response from parts select.If I had called a service tech probably would have cost $50.00 or more for a part that cost a little over $3.00 and saved this site in case I need to order other parts.Thank you
Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel. Tested the dryer no more noise.
My 11 year old daughter broke the door clasp to the dryer by repeatedly slamming it trying to get it to close. I told her to go down stairs write down the make model and serial number and come back up and find a place to buy it online. I left with instructions not to use the computer for anything else until the part was found. Less then 15 minutes later I came back because I heard giggling. She was chatting but had found an exploded view of the door and the part. She was very pleased with herself! We bought it and it arrived a few days later. I saw the empty box. She had opened it and taken it down and installed it herself. A good lesson, for her and me
You have to take apart the whole dryer to get to the belt.Nut driver with cordless drill make it go so much faster.Unplug dry, take apart dryer and replace with olr belt with new belt.Takes about 20 minutes to do.plus I took off the two guide wheels on back of cabinet and greased everything.Works like brand new.I had a repair guy tell me I needed a new motor.If you can spin the drum by hand replace belt first.
Removed the front dryer panels (lower & upper), front drum support and drum. This gave me easy access to the idler pulley and tension spring. I also took the opportunity to vacuum all of the lent that had collected over the years. After installing the new parts and aligning the belt, I reassembled the panels, plug it in and it worked like a champ! Locating the parts on your website was fast and easy. I appreciate it and thank you.
used one nut driver, basically took the whole machine apart. took snap ring off the idler shaft, replaced pulley, and put it back together. simple job.
removed the lower cover, tipped the dryer on its back for easier access, unscrewed the 2 mounting screws removed the heating element, installed the thermostat and and high tempt relay on new one replaced the wires reinstalled the new element, very simple
