GU2400XTPB3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I first went to the breaker box and turned off the power. Then turned of the water supply and removed the lower panels. I proceeded to take the electrical off and disconnect the water supply tube and disconnected the drain tube. At this time I removed the counter screws and lowered the adjustable legs so I could pull the washer from under the counter. Want it is out I laid it on its side and unplugged the power cord to the motor and removed the 3/8 inch hex head screw , so I could turn the pump 1/4 turn and removed it. To replace the new pump I first aligned the arrows on pump and motor housing and placed the pump back into the sump housing and reversed the removal process. It was just that easy . Thank for the quick shipping of the pump and motor.

My main fear was finding the part and not knowing my dishwasher model without looking it up in the owner's manual. Imagine my joy to find the part color-coded on the website and extremely easy to find!!!

Followed the video tutorial and repair was a breeze.

Repair was easy. After readjusting the dishwasher so that it wasn't leaning forward (it still leaked) I replaced the Door Gasket. Pulled one end out about 2 ft and pushed in the new one as I pulled the old one out and pushed the new one in. Came out and went in easy, just used a big screw driver to slighting push the new gasket in to make sure it fit snug. Fit, Form & Function was all correct. Works like a sharm, no more leaks and door does fit snug when closing. All good.

Googled the problem, water fill valve seemed to be the problem. Ordered the part, slide the dishwasher out, leaned it back to expose the front bottom area, removed the old valve (dont forget to turn off the water first). Just remove the part and replace. Its that simple!

The first thing I did was watch all the how to video's. It looked simple enough for me to do this so I ordered the parts. I unplugged the dishwasher, took out both the baskets, and I am not sure what this is called but the whole tube thing that has the upper little spinner at the top. Replaced the spinner assy. Then on the upper basket there is a manifold at the end. The tip had broken off I took it apart and replaced it. This all took about 5 minutes, very simple. Then I took out the bottom spinner blade, then proceeded to remove the screws, lifted off the filter removed the screw that held the cover of the chopper assy. The chopper assy had fallen apart the only thing that was in one piece was the back plate. Took out all the broken pieces then attempted to put the new chopper assy back in. Now here is where I had problems. The chopper assy is spring loaded and there are a couple of groves and I was trying to put the assy in the wrong grove and it took me a long time to figure out I was doing this. I finally put the chopper assy in the correct grove, and put everything back together, and the dishwasher works wonderful again. I figured I saved myself over $1000 because I didn't have to go out and buy a new dishwasher. I am 53 and a woman, so I am pretty proud of myself for doing this. Am also very grateful for the video's which helped me fix my dishwasher.

First I had to figure out what was going on. After the 2nd time of being gone for about a week we came home to water on the floor around the dishwasher. After 1st time I thought leak started after starting dishwasher. Checked all connections while running but found nothing. Wrote it off as an anomoly probably due to a dried up seal that reseated. Realized after 2nd trip when we came back and found water on the floor it was when dishwasher had not been started. Figured the water was leaking thru the water inlet valve. To determine that I pulled dishwasher out and removed hose off from outlet. With dishwasher off, water was dripping out of the inlet valve with water feed on. Realized then that if I left dishwasher off overnite there may be a fair amount of water in the dishwasher. I was correct. If dishwasher was used every day or every other day we never had problem. Only when we left for a long period of time did we experience the leak. Funny thing is the leak was within the plumbing but after the inside of dishwasher filled it would start overflowing. To repair, first turned off power and shut water off. Pulled dishwasher out for easier access. Then it was a matter of removing outlet hose using pliers to pinch clamp to open, then removing screw that held bracket in place (nutdriver). This allowed easy access to remove fitting from old inlet valve using adjustable wrench. Once off I put new teflon tape on and threaded fitting onto new valve using adjustable again. Reinstalled bracket using nut driver and put hose back on using pinch pliers. All was good after that. Even checked water in the dishwasher tub after a nite or 2 of no use and no water leaking in at all. Just like new.

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.

Pulled two clips off the rack and removed the tine row. Put the new tine row in, had to put both clips on at the same time. Very glad that the clips we had were not bad, because if they were, we would have had to order new clips too. They might consider including that with the tine row. Otherwise a fairly simple job.

Watched the video several times and made notes. The video is excellent and by following the procedure outlined it was like painting by the numbers. I could have done the job in under an hour but I'm slow and doubled checked everything as I progressed. My only remark is to make sure after snapping the dispenser in the door make sure the unit is all the way to the right before tightening the screws.

This had to be the most inexpensive approach we have ever tried with an appliance repair! One of the 4 supports on our DW had broken, leaving the basket drooping on one side. We thought we would have to have a repairman over and replace the entire basket. Not so! We found the broken part on PartSelect, purchased it, and it was a piece of cake. We have an icemaker problem with our refigerator, so will be doing the same soon, after watching the repair video. This is the only way to go when it comes to repairs!

Followed the video except my model had a fixed panel 4inches wide at the top of the door on the outside which is held in by screws that don't need to come out. Secondly, the original RinseAid dispenser had wires for the Low RinseAid light on the control panel. The replacement had a big indicator that shows RinseAid level and I left the connected loosely secured, not connected. Worked the first time, no leaks because I was really careful seating the rubber seal on the replacement part onto the inside of the door. Cheers.

Removed screws popped out fuse replaced fuse put screws back works good as new

These directions are for Whirlpool dishwasher model # DU1055XTVB8. The steps below might be slightly different if you have a different model dishwasher.

1. Turn the electrical power off.

2. Remove both the lower and upper racks from inside the dishwasher. To remove the top one, it is necessary to remove the plastic stops at the end of each track. Push in on the tab on each of these stops and lift them up to remove. The lower rack has no stops and just slides out.

3. Put a towel on the bottom of the dishwasher (to catch any parts that might fall).

4. Remove the Philips screw from the top of the feed tube (the plastic part onto which the spinner attaches).

5. Pull down slightly on the feed tube and remove the plastic fastener (which holds the spinner in place) from the top of the feed tube.

6. Insert a new plastic fastener (with its head up) into the hole of the feed tube. Position the spinner under the feed tube and then snap the spinner and new plastic fastener together.

7. Reinstall the Philips screw into the top of the feed tube.

8. Remove the towel and put the racks back inside the dishwasher.

9. Turn electrical power back on.

I put this unit in about 3 years ago and the brackets broke at the crease and the dishwasher fell forward. Found the right bracket and when it arrived looked a match. Checked link to video showing how to properly install the brackets. The original manufacturer never stated that the tab that goes through the frame is supposed to be bent 90 degrees to prevent the bracket from coming out. Thank you PartSelect for that video because I would probably end up ordering brackets again in a few years.