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Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.
I watched the video provided by PartSelect twice, then proceeded with the removal and installation. It took me 40 minutes from start to finish. Piece of Cake. Everything works fine now.
I pried the relay from compressor with small screwdriver, cut and replaced burnt wire going to relay,pushed new relay on compressor and wires unfortunately it did not fix the problem.
Removed the divided glass shelf, to which the slide rail is attached. Removed the broken rail, saved the two screws. Now comes the clincher: It would help if the replacement part website would tell you what size and what kind screwdriver you will need, so you could start chasing it while you wait for the part. Even better if they could include it, since the plastic part and it‘s shipment is not exactly cheap. So to screw in two screws you need a #15 Star screwdriver! How many housewife’s have this one in the tool drawer?
took back cover off. swept the rear with a vacuum cleaner to get rid of dust.found that the fan would not turn. ordered part with your really great ordering technique. Part was suppose to be here in 3-5 days and was here the next day!!!.Removed 2 bolts pulled out the plastic clip that held the wire on. and worked the fan blade off shaft. removed and replaced in the same order as taking simple Thanks
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
the refrigerator did warm up arround the doors until the freezer side stops work.
After I have checked oline , I ordered the parts wich Igot a day early and fix it , it took me about 15 minutes and I saved at 250.00 dollars . Thanks for all the help.
Open the freezer panel which attached with screwws and locate the defrost thermmostate behind the back pannel. Cut off the old thermostat wires and connect the new wires.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
Remove rear access cover. Remove 2 screws on fan motor bracket. Remove fan blade. Unplug harness. Insert new motor in reverse order. Literally took less than ten minutes. Plugged the fridge back in and quiet as a mouse... perfect replacement part.