Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The unit would run when the door was open!
First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Turntable Stopped Working/Display Timer Would Countdown But Not Heat
With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!
Microwave not turning on. All other functions operate
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor Leave unplugged overnight Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel GOOD LUCK
I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.
time would count down but unit would not run & heat.
remove cover, unplug secondary door switch (top switch) remove switch from holder, install new switch, plug in wires, replace cover, very easy. door switches are a common problem with microwave ovens.
Removed cover, diagnosed problem, ordered part from Parts Select, received part in 2 days, replaced part, tested and replaced oven into built in space.
When trying to run, intermittently, the light would come on but the tray wouldn't rotate or cook. When the door was open, the tray would intermittently rotate.
I pulled out the unit and found 2 interlock switches that are depressed when the door closes. After cycling the door open/closed I found that one of the switches occasionally would stay depressed. The repair was easy (after I took off the panels so I could get to the switch) I simply removed 2 screws that attached the interlock switch assemblies to the main unit. Then I popped out the defective switch and popped in the new one. This did indeed fix my problem.
Light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
It was a snap using the instructions given. The key is getting into the unit. I did have to use a multimeter to find the failed switch since there are two of that type.
Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.
Microwave worked but oven fan came on when door was opened - should onlly come on when oven is operating.
Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.
