GT23X83V Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Removed the crisper drawers, then the shelves and placed on the bar. Took the rail off the back of the shelf that held the glass down, laid the glass forward, removed the slide support rails , closed the shelf, put the rail back, replaced the shelves and returned the crispers. So simple.

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

unscrewed the old one! installed the new one! That simple. And I'm female, how easy was that!

Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.

Ordered the entire seal kit for repair and seal of the basket and hub. One of the challenging tasks was to pull the drive bell off. If you crack or break it, no big deal, you won't reuse it but to make it simpler, use whats called a wonder bar or flat bar and use the hex head bolts in the base of the basket for leverage and work on opposing sides of the bell and it will slowly come up off the shaft instead of using a drive bell tool you'll only use once.
Once you pop that off, take the front panel off and lift back the top to expose the entire interior and exterior basket. remove the bolts in the interior basket and pull out to expose the exterior basket. Now, you need to get that honkin hex nut off the transmission output shaft which was probably the hardest part of the job. Here's the trick to get that off. Grab an 8 inch pipe wrench, reinstall the two hex bolts back into the hub assembly you just pulled out to remove the interior basket but leave them high enough to get the flat bar between them to stabilize the hub and use the pipe wrench to remove the giant hex nut. Once this is done, its all down hill.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

No instructions with part. Found a picture on line and changed the arm, but it didn't fix the problem. Fairly easy after figured out what needed to be done to get to the part.

empty frezzer take door off unplug wires going to ice maker unscrew/bolt icemaker replace door take motor cover off ice maker remove screws on motor replace ice cup and put every thing back together