GT2127PEGW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

First I used needle-nose pliers to remove broken hooks from the door. (One of the broken hooks slipped down inside the door and could not be retrieved. It will not create a problem is you cannot remove broken hooks.) I examined the hooks against the bracket to check the hook orientation (up or down ... they faced down). Next I searched online for the parts and discovered my door decal model number needed one or more letters, and I could not find the serial number. I only knew it was a 10 year old Maytag model RSW2400E.

All online websites (no matter what model version I used) said the basket door stop brackets were obsolete and no longer available. I finally found Partselect.com and used their easy search system to find pictures and descriptions of the parts. But I could only find parts with upward facing hooks. I was concerned but decided to take a chance and ordered them because they looked like they might fit. I had nothing to lose since the original parts are no longer available. When the new parts arrived, they looked just like the broken ones except for the hook orientation, and the packaging listed them correctly as "STOP. BASKET (LT) part #61004465" and "STOP.BASKET (RT) part #61004466". I held them up to the door (while still in the packaging) and they looked good.

INSTALLATION:
First, I inserted the left-hand bracket hooks into the door panel holes (you can start with either the left or right side) and gave it a little push and it snapped into place. The hooks and the little stop node fit perfectly and flush. YES!

Second, I took the basket, and making sure it was facing the correct direction for tilting in and out, I inserted the basket pivot post into the pivot hole on the stop bracket (making sure that I had the basket frame to the inside of the stop so that the basket would catch and be stopped when tilted out).

Third, I got the right-hand bracket and inserted it onto the other basket pivot post BEFORE I installed the right-hand bracket into the door.

Lastly, while holding the basket and the bracket together, I inserted the bracket into the door and pushed it into place.

I checked the basket operation. It tilted perfectly. There were no clearence issues. WOOHOO! Job done in less than 5 minutes, THANK YOU PARTSELECT.COM

I would only ask Partselect to adjust the online description to "Door Basket Stop - Left Hand and Right Hand" (Door Shelf Retainer Bracket is not correct.)

The repair goes much easier if the door is removed. The door is bulky and that's the difficult part. Once its on the table, unscrew to get old one off, put new one in place and re screw. (there are many screws) Then bulky door needs to be placed back onto the refrigerator. Again difficult positioning, weight, bulky. The door comes off and goes on very easily (2 mins to get off, 10 to put back on). Just 3 lower screws. This job could have taken less than an hour if I had started with a removed door.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Removing the broken rail was very difficult. There is a small notch that actually holds it in place. To remove the old rail, there was a hole in the metal bracket next to where the notch was. You had to apply pressure through the hole to the rail to slightly bend it to get it to release the notch to slide the old rail out. After the old rail was removed, the new rail with rack wheel installed, slid in and snapped into place very easily.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

The first order of business was to find a supplier for the gasket and to make sure that the right one was ordered. This was done with out a hitch @ Part Select and at a cost less than the retail stores. The right Gasket was ordered thru Parts Select

Only difficulty was to start the install of the replacment .
Need to start at the hinged corner of the door Top & Bottom for a good fit and less hassel.

Thank you Part Select for the service.

Alan E. Bischof
Houston Texas

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

Once I identified the problem, Partselect's web page made it easy to find a replacement part. The Housing Control unit was easy to remove as it had one screw in the middle, by the temprature control section, and two screws to either end. The center screw required a philips head, but the end once did not need to be removed. The unit could simply be slid out and the wiring is easy to disconnect. Then it was simply a process of inserting the components from the damaged Housing Control unit, to the new one. If you treat it like a "puzzle" you'll get the results you want with out the aggrevation that it could turn into.

It was easy breezy!! I felt like an empowered woman that I did it myself. I simply removed the old shelf supports with a screwdrive and inserted a screw thru the new supports and screwed them in.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The gasket is sandwiched between the main door and the shelf assembly.

What holds them together is 42 1/4in hex head self tapping screws that run along the edge (each one is finger tight).

I would highly recommend a power drill with a 1/4 hex socket to remove the screws. It makes things much faster. Be careful when screwing the screws back in with the power drill(you only want them finger tight). If the screws are too tight,the gasket will bulge out in places.

At first the seal may feel weak. Keep the door closed for a couple of hours and the seal should improve.

opened door, put in shelf then closed door