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No power to microwave
Had trouble isolating the problem, so I had a repairman identify the problem, then I ordered the part and replaced it myself.
Removed screws holding the grill in place. Removed air filter, removed screw holding plate under the filter in place. Reached in under fan cowling to find the thermostat cut-out. Disconnected the two wires. Put the new thermostat in place. Replaced screws plates and filter in reverse order.
Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
First, potatoe burned up in microwave. Microwave was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.
Micrwave won't run - turntable turns backwards when door opened...
Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.
Microwave appeared to work. Fan worked, timer worked plate rotated. It just didn't heat the food!
I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!
Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!
I found an exploded view diagram of of my microwave model which was very helpful. You need only remove outside metal skin by removing 4 screws on either side and 4 more on the back. Remove 4 plastic hole plugs from the top mounting inserts. Gently pull sides out and lift up and back to remove outer skin. The fuse is located on the back right corner behind the control panel. You access from the side. The fuse is under the spreader bar. Lift fuse up gently to remove.
P.S. It was the MSP Capaciter and or the interlock switch, snap apart 21A (19) failure that actually caused the ceramic fuse to blow.
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
