My wheels would not stay on the roller rack which made me dread having to put a dish in the rack.
All I had to do is take out the rack, pop off the old wheels, place the new stud rollers on, then pop on the new wheels. So easy and now my dishes don't get chipped when I pull the rack out and push it back in. I wish I didn't wait so long to order new parts.
Pull old rack out, slip new one in! One thing i did was order wheels and studs as i was unaware they lower rack came fully equiped with all wheels,studs, and flip up dish dividers. So if your replacing the rack no need to order the wheels! The diagram made it look as if you only et the wire rack and not all the added pieces.
The wheels kept falling off the right side of the bottom rack; it was extremely annoying. We basically had to lift the bottom rack to get it in and out of the dishwasher.
I removed the old wheels & studs on the right side of the bottom rack of the dishwasher, and I gleefully THREW THEM ALL OUT! HA HA!
Then I put the nice new rollers on the studs, and then I put them on the rack.
Helpful hints for others beleaguered by this design problem:
1) Be sure to get new studs - that's the part that kept causing the wheels to fall off
2) Put the rollers on the studs before putting them on the rack. (Another user on this site noted that, and it was very helpful).
3) P.S. Very prompt shipping, great service - I will definitely use this company again. And thanks to whoever dropped a cheerful Christmas candy into the box!!
my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door. Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them. Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them. Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place. Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work. Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly. Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy. Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand. Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
tormented by the wheels falling off the lower rack in the dishwasher, had to lift it in and out when loading, then it would get hung up and not enter straight. a real pain in the @$%. i was so happy to find parts select, and see that other people had the same problem. i ordered the new wheels and modified clip. shipping was really fast. took off the older ones and replaced them. when my husband came home and saw i fixed it myself, he was astonished. no more fighting the rack. smooth and better than new. thx parts select!!
Water leak, small puddle to front left of dishwasher
You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).
You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.
Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.
Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!
Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
Glasses and Cups contained baked on sand after washing.
Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.
seal around bottom of door leaking heavy water onto floor during use
First you must remove all screws around inside door frame, and remove panel. (I would recommend using something to weight door down after removing panel from door as it will try to continue to close) Flip panel over and remove old seal by simply pulling off, paying close attention to how the seal is fitted and direction it faces. Clean area of any debris,and let the learning curve begin, after several frustrating attempts, I found it easier to install new seal by first installing it backwards by sliding seal along its track and groove, this will allow it to loosen up, then remove it and install the seal by lapping it over the the track and snapping/sliding it into place. The repair itself from the service center would of been $180.00 - $200.00, I did it myself for $39.00. I would recommend anybody with a sense of aptitude and patience to do this repair themselves. After some research I found out that this model and problem is a common repair, which is somewhat ridiculous in my opinion, as the machine itself is only 2 1/2 years old and it came pre-installed in a new home.
went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.
put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go
