Surface light bulbs burnt out and heat welded to sockets
Since the job required replacing both the bulbs and sockets the unit was dropped from the wall. Used a towel and plywood to protect the range under the unit. Then these steps: Unplugged the power cable and placed a support board under the unit while removing three bolts from overhead cabinet. Next, removed support board and with a helper rotated the unit down and lifted it out of the rear wall mounting panel. Then turned the unit upside down, removed the bottom plate and unplugged the feed wires and two wires to each of the sockets. Next the single screws holding the sockets were removed and the sockets extracted from the mounting shells and new units were installed. When remounting the unit it was necessary to start all three bolts from the upper cabinet just a few turns and then tighten the center bolt completely first.
Many months agoI replaced a bulb in the light and it did not work. After swapping bulbs with the light on the other side I determined it was not the bulb.
I asked a handyman at the local fitness center about repairing it and he refered me to your website where I found an exploaded drawing showing the parts I needed and how to get to them. It was great and very easy.
My son=law did repair because I am elderly and it was necesary to remove the bottom plate of the microwave which I was unable to do. The microwave was installed in 1987 and I believe this was the first time to replace the bulbs. When my son removed them the bulb was diintergrated. That's how old they were. Once he was able to remove the underneath plate the repair was easy except for removing the old bulbs. I think that I could have done it myself but he was available and I am sure it was done much better. All in all the parts)bulbs) were correct and everything is workiin fine. This is a good place to order replacement parts. In fact I am going to order a new charcoal filter. He took the label off the old one and I am ordering the replacement. After all 1987 may have been a good year, but time for a new one. Mary
With many thanks to those who posted their experience and advice replacing the bulb, I was able to remove 5 of the 6 screws holding the underside panel and remove the socket which contained the broken off base of the bulb and extract it with needle-nose pliers. I had broken off the glass portion of the bulb trying to unscrew it due to the awkward contortion of my wrist-hand-fingers trying to grip the bulb inside the tight recess the bulb is mounted in. After concluding that I needed more information, I did a web search for 'Hotpoint RVM1435' and found helpful advice at partselect.com telling me to drop the bottom panel. Good call! Thanks everyone!
Removed cover, diagnosed problem, ordered part from Parts Select, received part in 2 days, replaced part, tested and replaced oven into built in space.
My son had to replace the bulbs because the screw that holds the bulb shield was so tight that I couldn't remove it. It was too difficult for me to do it myself.
Had to take the MW off the wall, remove the cover, and find the magnetron. Issue was the HV-capacitor. Had to remove the diode and capacitor to discharge the capacitor safely. Crackle-Bang! Then put it back before toying with the HV-transformer in order to get the magnetron out. Took a little under two hours to get it back on the wall and a lot of cajones when monkeying around the chassis removing the capacitor. Not a job for most everyone as this was a potentially high-shock repair due to the voltage and micro-farads held in that capacitor. Hardest part was getting the magnetron to drop out past the HV-transformer. Also, the thermostat had to be removed from the magnetron and re attached to the new one. Fiddly delicate job, not for the clumsy or faint of heart.
