GS2182NKGQ Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Getting a new lower hinge pin, fixed the problem.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

I removed three screws from top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and set door on a flat surface. Replaced part and set door back in place. Put screws back and door fit tight again.

unplug refrigerator, take backing off with nut driver. Pull old blade off and put new blade on. Put backing back on and plug in.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Did all of work without removing door. Door is approximately 2 1/2" off floor, so shim door with a piece of two by four and wood shims to hold door level while removing bolts. Had mirror lying on floor underneath the hinge to see location of bolts. Removed 3 bolts that hold the metal bracket. After removing the bracket the pin slides out. Then remove another bolt from the door closer, this enables the old closer to be removed. Then replace new closer with one bolt. Slide hinge pin back in place making sure tab is toward refrigerator to line up with hole in metal bracket. Replace metal bracket with bolts. Tools used were 1/4" drive ratchet, 1/4" drive 3" extension and a 1/4" drive 5/16 " socket

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I watched the instructional video included with the shipping date e-mail(about 3 minutes long), and simply followed the instructions. It took about 2 days for the refrigirator section to return to normal cool temperature to the level set.

removed the back cover unplugged the unit removed the old fan blades installed the new easy to pull off and easy to install

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.