GS2126PADW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.

Called a serviceman. The Air return cover is NOT the cover we replaced. Ours is 3/4 of the way down on the freezer side of fridge. Put a thermometer inside, to monitor it.

Replacement parts looked different than the originals, however with the on-line feedback from similar customers and a well worded OM, the repair was quick and simple. Thanks to all.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Snapped off handle covers at top and bottom of each handle, using a regular screwdriver to pry them off. Removed 3 screws on each handle using a Phillips screwdriver. This was the hardest part as they were screwed on extremely tight and you don't want to strip the screws as you need them to attach the new handles. The rest was simple...take off old handles, screw on new ones, and snap the covers back on. The actual installation took 10 minutes (excluding the time it took to get those tight screws off the old handles).

Did all of work without removing door. Door is approximately 2 1/2" off floor, so shim door with a piece of two by four and wood shims to hold door level while removing bolts. Had mirror lying on floor underneath the hinge to see location of bolts. Removed 3 bolts that hold the metal bracket. After removing the bracket the pin slides out. Then remove another bolt from the door closer, this enables the old closer to be removed. Then replace new closer with one bolt. Slide hinge pin back in place making sure tab is toward refrigerator to line up with hole in metal bracket. Replace metal bracket with bolts. Tools used were 1/4" drive ratchet, 1/4" drive 3" extension and a 1/4" drive 5/16 " socket

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I watched the instructional video included with the shipping date e-mail(about 3 minutes long), and simply followed the instructions. It took about 2 days for the refrigirator section to return to normal cool temperature to the level set.

No instructions with part. Found a picture on line and changed the arm, but it didn't fix the problem. Fairly easy after figured out what needed to be done to get to the part.

Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.

I took everything out of the door of the fridge and then unscrewed the bracket on the top of the door holding it to the fridge. Once all 3 screws were out I picked up on the door to remove it from the lower brackets that was holding it on the bottom of the fridge. I then placed the door on two bar stools to take the hinge pin and door closer off. Once they were unbolted and the new ones installed. I put the door back resting on the lower bracket as it was when I pulled it off. I then screwed one screw on the top bracket to hold the door and lined it up evenly and put the other two screws in and tightened them down. Everything was really easy to change and the door closes perfectly.