GS2126PADW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I Removed the two wires from the old relay. I Then pulled the old relay off the compressor. Next, I had to get the overload seperated from the old burnt relay, which took some care not to break. The old relay and overload is in a plastic compartment. Then I followed the directions that came with the new relay. The only confusion came with getting the two wires back onto the terminals of the new relay, mainly because the old relay was burnt so badly I didn't have any idea how it was originally wired. I crossed the two wires on the terminals of the relay. The compressor would click off and on, but would not start blowing cold air. I swapped the wires on the terminals and it started working immediately.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

googled for answer, deduced relay/switch problem. googled again for parts, found partselect.com, ordered part. 2 days later & $70 lighter, my 8yr old Maytag was working again! Parts were good fit, instructions were decent enough. Not for inexperienced tinkerer though.

took off door and replaced parts and replaced door

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The factory installed fill tube was formed and molded, hard plastic. Nothing like the replacement part or the one depicted in the install instructions.To remove it, I had to grip the exterior water tube module with a pair of Visegrip pliers, twist and pull as hard as possible, to expose a section of fill tube. I then had to cut through the tube with a hacksaw to remove the module and flange that secure it to the access hole. From the inside, I removed the ice maker and fan shield to expose the remaining section of fill tube. Using a section of copper pipe and a hammer, I was able to drive the tube through the back wall of the appliance. Fitting the new tube was easy. However, it is too short to reach the fill cup. I fashioned a section of the old tube to create an extension which I inserted in the new part. And, much to my surprise, it actually works!

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

This is an easy repair. It took me longer to remove the bins off the inside of the door and clean then up, then the actual repair. Remove the top hinge trim 1 Phillips screw. After the hinge trim is removed you'll see 3 hex screws. Remove the 3 screws. Hold and open the door half way, and lift up on the door. The door is not heavy. Use your kitchen table as a work bench. Place the door flat on the kitchen table . On the bottom of the door you'll see the "CLOSER" One screw removes it. Reverse operations and reassemble. Note: Put a little Vaseline grease on the pivot point. Thats it ... 15 minutes and your done plus you saved a $65.00 service call.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

First I removed the top hinge cover plate. Then removed the three screws in the top hinge. I lifted the door off the lower hinge and laid the door on the kitchen counter. I removed the one screw holding the natural door closer part from the bottom of the door and installed the new part with the same screw. I then replaced the lower hinge pin with the new one. It just sets in place. I then repositioned the door and reinstalled the top hinge. the whole job took about 15 minutes after the refrig door had been emptied. The door works like new.

First I popped off the outer handle and removed the broken section. It was held on by two screws. I removed them and inserted the new piece fasten down with two screws and snaped the outer handle back in place.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!