GLTF2940ES0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

unscrewed (2) screws, took broken piece off and screwed new piece on with the (2) screws. Keep your old screws because part does not come with screws.

Ok, so I went to wash clothes and my Frigidaire Affinity wouldn't come on because it said the door wasn't locked. The switch had gone out. I researched it and bought it here. When we got it, I looked up a video on Youtube that was less than 2 minutes long. My husband and I watched it and then did the repair! It took us only a few minutes and then the washer worked! We saved time and at least $150! And it was so easy to do that I probably could have done it without my husband, and I'm not the handy type.

Very easy fix. Removed remaining bottom mounting screw and removed old door handle. Positioned new handle on dryer making sure it fit properly in it's slots and installed screws into mounting brackets. Worked perfectly.

Remove back panel,lay on side,2 screws remove the motor,unclamp the hose drain,DO NOT USE FACTORY CLAMPS.Buy standand hose clamps and save lots of time.Tighten clamps,screw motor back in place,your washing cloths again.

took the 2 screws out, removed the old and screwed in the new.Piece of cake. What stod out in the process was Part selects follow up with email and video of how to replace. They are great....

My shocks on the washer were broken, in part because of age, the other is broken spider drum inside the barrel. Was very easy to do the shocks. Unhook water connections and power. Move washer away from the wall. Remove the back cover from the washer. On the left side, you have to remove two screws from the electronics control box so you can gently move it out of the way. Then grab the plastic pin with some pliers and pull while depressing the locking lug on the end of the pin (Very important to depress the lock or you will have to buy new pins) Remove both pins for each shock. I used some high pressure grease on the pins when I put it all back together. Was a quick fix. Unfortunately had to take it all back apart as this was only a small part of my issue with having the stainless drum being broken inside.

After searching the internet, I found out that the error code flashing on my front loading washer was an easy DIY fix. I went into our local big box home improvement store who told me to go to their online store for the part I needed. I did but had zero luck. I found the part I needed here and found a great video online which walked me through the repair. The part arrived and it took less than 10-mins to be done and have a working washer again. Thanks for the great service! From a working mom in NC

Replaced the shocks. It was easy

unscrewed broken one and screwed the new one in place.

I followed the instructions enclosed with the parts and removed the front access panel. Following the instructions for removal of the shock absorber mounting pins for the mount on the left hand side of the washer (as observed from the front) was difficult. I depressed the pin using my finger and I used a small nut driver to push the pin out. The nut driver was smaller than the pin and helped push the pin completely out. Even so, this require a lot of effort and I cut my hand when it slipped (no job worth doing always requires a little bloodletting). Installation of the replacement shock absorber in this position required moderate effort but went well. After a lot of effort trying to remove the pins on the shock absorber on the right hand side of the washer it became obvious that it was impossible to do it from the front of the washer. Other objects in the washer obstructed access to the pins. So I had to remove the back panel of the washer to aid in accessing the pins. At this point I required the assistance of my wife to depress the tab on the pins while I pulled on the pins with a pair of pliers’. The bottom pin has an obstruction where the pin pulls out. Removing the pin required quite an effort and nearly broke the pin (I guess that is why a replacement pin is in the kit). We installed the pin for this bottom mount in the opposite direction than the original pin was installed. I am sure that I saved a lot of money by doing this myself, but I would not recommend others to do it themselves.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

I found this wonderful web site, after removing the cover and running a diagnostic to find it was either the door lock or the TCP control board. Control board unable to find any information on was scared to call the repair man as they usually cost about $500.00. I am a single mother and order the door lock and just like that I was able to repair it myself. Thanks you so much!!!

Turned off electricity. Unscrewed top panel. Took off top panel. opened door. Unscrewed door lock. Pulled lock up. Unplugged connections. Plugged in new part, positioned, and screwed in. Replaced top panel

Wow - that was quite the project. The directions that come with it are not the most clear. First of all, when it is time to pull the bellows and spring off, just plan on pulling as hard as possible. I used some Channel Locks to grab the bellows, as my hands just couldn't hold on. Two people would make it easier. The toughest part is getting the spring back on. My advice is to remove the yellow tubes from the black spacers and just use the black part.

Replacing the door strike is very easy. Two screws. The broken pieces stay in the door lock/switch assembly. The first time I got them out with needle nose pliers. A year later it happened again and this time I had to replace the lock/switch assembly. I followed procedure others mention here: Two screws at back of washer release the top. Slide that back. Then undo the two screws in the front of the assembly and lift it out, and replace. The important thing is that the door on the washer no longer aligns with the door lock/switch assembly, so we have to carefully (!) lift it to shut it. Do not slam. The issue with the door arises because instructions say to keep the door open so that mold does not grow in the basin. But the hinge on the door is not strong enough to support the door as it stands open when at rest over the years and it has begun to give way. This washer needs a new and stronger hinge. Meanwhile, do not slam your door. Shut it gently, lift if necessary, even on a new machine!