Models > GLTF1040AS0 > Instructions

GLTF1040AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for GLTF1040AS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GLTF1040AS0
61-75 of 258
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Tank would not stop filling.

  • Customer: John from Willis TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced both the water inlet valve and the tank pressure switch to eliminate any possible cause. The repair was easy, and now the washer works fine.

Washing machine wouldn't drain or spin. It would run through its cycle, but only agitate.

  • Customer: Jen from Lebanon OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Use a cup to take the water out of the washer. Get at least three large towels -- you're going to have to sop up the water when you disconnect the hoses.

Take the bottom panel off (2 Phillips head screws). Drain pump is on the right side.

Remove the two screws holding the pump to the metal bottom plate. Use a small socket wrench and/or a screwdriver. I had to use a screwdriver on the right screw and a socket wrench on the left screw! Place as many towels in the cavity as you can to catch the water that's going to come out when you detach the hoses.

There is an inlet hose and an outlet hose, attached with bright green clamps. Remove those with pliers. Clean up the water that drains out. The hose in the back (inlet) has a "coin catcher" area. Clean this out.

Attach the hoses to the new pump. Screw it down. Replace the bottom panel.

over filling

  • Customer: eliot from fairbanks AK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

20 cents in nickels destroyed pump. Pump vibrated violently afterwards.

  • Customer: Mark from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed bottom cover - torx driver and drill adapter.
1.5 Unplugged machine and disconnected electrical supply to old pump.
2. Removed flexible hoses with wrench.
3. Removed pump base from machine with torx driver - the hard part as small hands are needed
4. Connected new pump to machine base with torx driver - hard again.
5. Connected hoses - wrench
6. Connected electrical supply and plugged in.
7. Tested pump - very quiet again.
8. That's it! Don't pay a service guy $250 to do this. Buy the pump and do it yourself!

The washer would not pump the water out of the drum before the spin cycle.

  • Customer: Sven from Durand MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First of all unplug your washer from the power supply and turn off the hot and cold water supply. I removed the front lower panel of the washing machine with a philips head screwdriver. Next I removed the plastic pins holding the right side shock obsorber. This was a little difficult because the upper pin is in a tight location and there's not much room to push the pin out. I just used the flat end of a screwdriver and slid it in place. The pins take some effort to push out, mainly because you have to hold the little tab on the pin down while you push it out. The replacement shock seems to be better constructed. I just put a little Vaseline on the new pins to help them slide through the metal sleeves on the ends of the shock. You also have to pay attention to which way the sleeves go into the shock so you don't push them out when you install the shock.

Replacing the pump was pretty easy. The pump is right there in front fastened to the bottom plate with two philips head screws. Have some towels ready, because if there's water in the drum or hoses it's coming out when you remove the hoses. Take a pair of pliers, or channel locks and open the hose clamp on the big inlet line, coming from the drum and slide it back so you can remove the hose. Then do the same for the outlet hose on the left side of the pump. It's easier to do this before you take the pump off the bottom plate. Once the hoses are off, remove the pump with a philips head screwdriver. While you have the pump out of the way, feel around inside the square reservior at the bottm of the big inlet hose to make sure there's nothing in there that might get stuck in the pump. A large bobby pin had made it's way into my pump and damaged it. It had fallen back down in that reservior, so at first I couldn't understand why the pump wasn't working, til I found it in there. Insatllation of the new pump is just reverse of disassembly. After that turn your water supply back on and plug in power. You might want to cycle the machine before you put the front cover back on to check for leaks. Good luck!

NO COLD WATER

  • Customer: Mark from Pittsburgh PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
CHECKED PROBLEM ON-LINE AND DISCOVERED IT WAS THE WATER INLET VALVE. MATCHED THE PART ON PART SELECT.COM. FINDING THE PART WAS VERY EASY. PART SELECT HAD A GRID BEHIND THE PICTURE TO HELP DETERMINE THE SIZE AND PICTURES FROM ALL SIDES. REMOVING THE OLD PART, MATCHING IT, AND REPLACEMENT TOOK A TOTAL OF 30 MINUTES. I NOW HAVE CLEAN CLOTHES.

Kenmore 417.41042000 Front loading washer shakes

  • Customer: Chris from Burtonsville MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!

leaking water inlet valve

  • Customer: Steven from Oklahoma City OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

Door strike on front load washing machine broke.

  • Customer: Jim from Anna TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
PartSelect had the part in stock, shipped that day. The part was delivered the next day, my wife had it installed and working when I got home from work.

Washer would function for 2 to 3 minutes and then pause. "PAU" appearing on the display.

  • Customer: Stephen from Amarillo TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

WASHER DOOR WOULDN'T LOCK

  • Customer: Shawn from Springdale AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I WATCHED THE U-TUBE VIDEO AND FOLLOWED WHAT HE DID AND IT WAS FIXED. REASON IT TOOK OVER 15 MIN I HAD TO FIND THE CORRECT BIT FOR THE SCREW. I THINK YOUR WEB SITE IS GREAT
THANKS

excessive vibration

  • Customer: Jon from Holland MI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

2 shocks and one spring broke

  • Customer: Don from campbell CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
repair wasn't too difficult, hardest was raising the drum to engage the springs.

Steps I took:

remove the rear and front (bottom) covers. To remove the rear cover, I went ahead and took the hoses off. The bottom cover needs a good tug once the two screws are removed.

Once both covers were off, it was obvious what had to be replaced.
Pushing the notch on the shocks, removed both top and bottom pieces. Then I used books to lift the drum so that i could attach the new springs. Removed the books, installed the shocks from the top to the bottom.

Went ahead and removed the coin drop, cleaned it out, and reattached. Ran the washer two cycles to confirm the vibrations were gone. Loaded it up with towels (seemed to cause the worst vibs) and it was quiet.

Re-installed the covers and that was it.

Basket loose and banging around - both shocks broken

  • Customer: Christopher from Woodbury CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
-Unplug machine and remove all water connections
-Remove back panel with power phillips screwdriver
-Removed some rectangular circuit box in the way of getting to one shock absorber (3 screws)
-Remove old shock absorbers with 1/2 inch socket (suggested in accompanying directions)- this took 2 minutes
-inserted new shocks as directed...this was the most difficult part, but used a hammer to bang into place.
-reinsert and screw down circuit box (or whatever it was)
-reattach back panel
-reestablish water hose connections
-plugged in and was in business
-had ordered a washer/dryer set for $1700 (at my parent's urging) and now can tell Sears to go pound sand!

Tub was sagging and seal was not complete, would leak

  • Customer: Steven from Irving TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The tub is supported by two springs and two shock absorbers. First remove the back panel of the washer. Then I placed the auto jack from my car under the tub, alongside the motor, and cranked it up, lifting the tub, until the top of the seal in the front was compressed. Then I took the top off of the washer to access the springs. There are retaining straps over the top of each spring that I had to remove to get to the springs. Pulling up hard on the spring allowed me to get a pair of pliers on the spring and pull it out of the slot it was in.

Once it was out of the slot I could remove it from the tub as well. I put the new spring in and replaced the retaining strap. Then I repeated this process on the other spring.

Once both springs were in place the tub was hanging as it should and the seal around the door was smooth all the way around. I haven't seen any more leaks since replacing the springs.
All Instructions for the GLTF1040AS0
61-75 of 258