GLGQ2152ES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

I set up my laptop with the partselect video going. Laid out my tools and the individual parts that were in the kit. I watched the video a segment at a time, performing the tasks in the same manner that the instructor did. All together, the process took less than two hours, I had no questions or difficulties, and the repair process went flawlessly and successfully. I had never done anything more complicated on a dryer than replacing the hose before this. The sense of pride in doing a repair of this level myself, and avoiding paying someone ridiculous fees to do it, is beyond description.

pulled out old catch with old pliers and popped new one, simple.

These are the instructions for replacing the dryer control board. The procedure is relatively simple, but if you are unsure you will remember how to reassemble, take pictures with your phone as you go along. This should take only about 30 min. You will need only a #2 phillips screwdriver (use a relatively short shaft as some of the screws are in tight places). A smaller jeweler's flat-tip screwdriver is recommended to help in disconnecting some of the plastic retaining taps and removing some of the electrical connectors later in the process.

1. Disconnect the dryer from the electrical supply.

2. Remove the top panel. The panel is held in place by metal and plastic tabs on the front and sides. Simply remove the two screws along the back edge of the top panel, then slide it back about half an inch and rotate the rear upward. The panel will lift right off.

3. Remove the console from the dryer. Remove the six screws holding console to the front panel. There are two screws on the top inner lip of the console housing on each end and one screw on each side on the lower back of the panel. Once these are removed, the console will come out by rolling it slightly forward from the top.

4. Disconnect the four electrical connections from the console. For two of these (those with plastic connectors), squeeze the small clip on the side of the connector and lift straight up. The two metal connectors (left side of the console as you face the dryer) are a bit more difficult. The easiest way is to take a small screwdriver (like a jewelers screwdriver or a computer repair kit) slide the end through the small hole in the metal connector and then use it to lever the connector from the metal tab on the console.

5. Separate the control board housing from the console. Remove the five screws holding the control board to the console and lift the control board & housing from the console face. You will have use your fingers or small screwdriver to free the control board housing from the console face by freeing it from the plastic tabs along the top and bottom. Be careful not to let the button mechanisms on the console face fall out (although they are marked with roman numerals - I, II, III, etc - to get them back in the right spots easily).

To prepare your replacement control board for installation, you will need to transfer the LED display/cover, LED prisms, and control knob from the old control board to the new one.

6. Remove the LED display by using a small screwdriver to GENTLY lift each of the side tabs of the display cover and then lift straight off. Once the LED display cover is off, pull the LED display unit straight out of its slot and insert it into the slot on the replacement board. Snap the display cover into place on the new control board to cover the LED display. (one of the cover's plastic clips is longer than the other to ensure you put the cover on correctly.)

7. Remove the control knob and it's display wheel from the old board housing. This removal can also be tricky as it fits tightly in the original unit. Using your small screwdriver again, you can GENTLY push the knob out from the rear of the old control board (you'll see the center spindle from the back of the unit). I used a Torx, instead of a flat or phillips, screwdriver to minimize the risk of damage to the back of the spindle. Once you've successfully removed the control knob, insert it partially into the proper hole on the new control panel and turn gently until it lines itself up and goes in easily the rest of the way.

8. The final step in disassembly is to remove the LED prisms (for the display lights on the console face) from the old control board housing to the new one. Do this with the two side-by-side since each of the prism slots has more holes than the prisms have pegs and you'll want to ensure they are in the right holes.

9. Once the LED display/cover, LED prisms, and control knob are transferred to the new control board, assembly is simply done

Took out drum which was the hardest part because Im short so I needed a little man power to lift it up then out.... Replaced entire bearing parts and belt.... You do need a nut driver for that but we ended up using plyers which worked okay.... All in all it was way easier than I thought it was gping to be.... Now it sounds brand new.

Taking the front of the dryer off was rather easy. A two screws under the control panel and once the flap that separates the washer and dryer was removed there are 4 more screws to remove and release the control panel (disconnect wire harness and let panel hang). Once removed, two more screws separate the door/front of the dryer. Remove those and the 4 on the top front of the dryer. When completed the only restriction you have are bracket mounts. Just give a good tug and the front should separate from the body. Thereafter, the drum can be removed by removing the belt first. Reach to the back and depress the spring loaded pully by moving it to the right, releasing the belt. Let the belt hang while you unscrew the the drum screws, 3 located in a triangle pattern inside the drum. Remove them and the drum from out of the dryer. Straight ahead of you is the heater assembly. In my case, only the coil had to b replaced. So it was as simple as removing the old and in with the new. Reverse your disassembly to get reassembly.

The new door handle was sent out the day I ordered it and arrived in three days! I unscrewed the old door and screwed in the new door (the new door handle didn't come with screws but the old screws were still perfectly good to use). My husband was impressed when he arrived home from his business trip!

Installed a new rear drum bearing kit and new drum belt

Basically followed the You tube videos on standard, stand alone dryers as mine is a stack-able unit. Allow a lot of room to work. Unplug electricity and or the gas, vent hose and water hoses. Start removing screws as per the video, remove Belt then lift up then out the dryer drum. (The drum drops in from above on the back of the unit)the rest is remove and replace as you go. *TIP... I use my phone to photograph tricky areas so I can review as needed. It was more scary then difficult. You can do it!

My dryer was making a horrible squeaking noise comparable to nails on a chalkboard! I looked to get a similar used replacement because I was in a bit of a pinch for $$$, after being frustrated and not finding anything I came here and found all the parts I needed for my repair for UNDER $40!!!! I followed the super easy how to video that was provided on this website. This is the second repair I have made to this dryer, I did the heating element about a year ago. I also used this site to purchase the part and used the how to video associated with that repair. I was very surprised that I received the part the next day when I paid for regular standard shipping! Overall this was a an awesome experience and I have saved so much money repairing my dryer on my own vice paying someone to do it!!!

Unplug dryer, Remove the two screws in the top panel on back of the dryer, remove top, unplug wiring harness between control panel and dryer, remove the for screws that hold the control panel to the face of the dryer. Remove control panel unit. Place the unit on the table and remove the screw that hold it together, pry tabs of the unit open to remove circuit board, remove digital readout and transfer to new control unit, pull out light emitters and transfer to new control unit, change out dial and stem from old unit and place in new unit. Snap new unit together and replace screws in the back side. Reinstall control unit reversing removal steps. Plug in harness and replace top. Plug in dryer. First test by selecting the no heat option. Turn on dryer, if no het is present and everything works, stop and select heat cycle and test. All is good!

removed the front then removed the belt that turns the drum pulled the drum strait up from the top then removed the bushing from the back wall put the new one in I also put A little grease in the new bushing to keep it from wearing installed the drum and front. realy easy. I'm A Instructor at A technical collage in Winnfield Louisiana and I used this as A project for my students.

so easy my daughter installed it the video was very helpful

I took the lower back panel off. Loosened the center bolt and took off the old Idler pulley. It looked brown in the middle and didn't roll well. But I wasn't sure if that was it, because the noise was so loud and sounded metal on metal. So I checked everything and vacuumed everything. After I got the new part it took me about 5 minutes to put the new one on. And dryer works fine. Thanks for the quick response and I saved about $200.00!

When new handle arrived, it took less than 2 minutes to replace the broken handle, using the original screws.

the repair when ok the only problem I had was installing the small white plastic piece in the back without losing the ball bearing .and I also vac up everything inside as well lot of lint