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Blocked inlet valve
Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Leaking Solenoid valve
1.Shut off the electric! 2.Shut off the water Supply. 3.Removed the two lower front panels(Two bolts each) . 4.The Water supply Solenoid is located far left up front . 5. Unplug power connector clip to the solenoid. 6.remove the two mounting bolts . 7. Use pliers to compress the rubber hose clamp And slide down the hose . 8 some small amount of water maybe in the hose a pan maybe necessary under the solenoid. 9.Gently pull the rubber hose off the nozzle. Complete installation in reverse. May The Force Be With You!
The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.
When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.
I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.
Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.
My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.
TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.
Per ps video. Really easy. Disconnect power, Remove front lower panel, remove Power leads, 2 installation bolts, remove 2 spring clamps on feed/exit hoses,reinstall.
I first watched a video on trouble shooting on You Tube. I took the insides of the dishwasher apart and found broken glass and some other debris.I shop vacuumed the inside and the dishwasher pump put back together and ran a rinse cycle,unfortunatly dishwasher was not draining. Got the model number and ordered the dishwasher pump through Part select. Within in a few days I had the part in hand and had to remove the dishwasher from under counter. Once turned over the pump was right there ands took 5 minutes to change replaced pump put everything back together and now dishwasher drains as expected.
The wheels on the lower rack of our dishwasher kept falling off.
Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.
some wheels had broken, was really hard to move rack in and out.
I am NOT handy, but my husband was gone when the wheels and stud/axles came. I was able to replace all of them in about ten minutes with no tools. Easy and no more frustrations!!!!!
After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.
The repair was easy. Removed all the screws from the inside door panel, approx. 11. Watch out for that last screw as there isn't anything else holding the outside panel, inside panel and control panel together other than those screws. I then unplugged the old dispenser backed out another 6 screws and replaced the old dispenser with the new one. Put it all back together within about a half hour.
took off eight philips screws on inside door panel which then exposed the broken actuator and missing spring. Replaced broken and lost parts and reset actuator in door then reinstalled inside door panel. Done and I'm happy not to have called service. Joe
