GHDA485N10CS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

Pulled the old one out and placed the new one right into place

HAHA! The easiest repair we have ever done! Took it out of the box, snapped the old arm loose, put the new arm in and -- the dishwasher works like new! Thank you!

Followed the instructions that came with the my order

watched the video

just slid the new rack into place

One of the rack slide end caps broke so only one end cap kept the rack from falling out. The video guide worked for me to remove the remaining end cap allowing the rack to come out. I then replaced the middle arm conduit carrier as it no longer had a tight fit. I then replaced the middle spray arm bearing and reinstalled the rack and the rack slide end caps using the video supplied online by this site . Ran dishwasher and verified middle spray arm was turning.

Ordered and replaced all three spray arms. The upper and middle spray arms were quickly replaced with a net-driver and are now working much better. The lower spray arm required no tool, just turn it CCW and lift it up. After replacement lower spray arm is still not moving at all. Maybe the lower spray arm washer is defective or the pump is just not putting out enough water. Will consider further repairs or replacement of the dish washer, it is 13 years old and used daily.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

Replaced the plastic piece. Simple

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Replaced keypad electronics PC boards.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Press endcap in place after ensuring the rack is in track