GHD4309L15BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Immediately shut off water supply to the washer. After ordering and receipt ot part: Removed base panel, turned off power, disconnected wire, water supply line and screws attaching washer to kitchen counter. Pulled the washer out and turned it on its side with the valve on top. Removed and replaced the valve, returned the washer to the upright position, pushed it back under the counter, reconnected all services, screws to counter and base panel, turned on the water and power. Took two hours since I needed take a trip to the hardware store to replace a right angle water fitting .

Before you due anything else...remove the water inlet valve, remove the 4 screws holding the water inlet coupling to the valve housing, remove the nylon filter (tight fit), and clean the debris from the filter. Re insert the filter, reassemble the valve housing and check for leaks. Clears most water flow problems.

Ordered the part from you and it was easy to replace.

In replacing the upper rack in our dishwasher, I struggled and broke one of the end caps (see previous tale of woe. With the new end caps, I finished the job in less than two minutes with no tools. BUY END CAPS when you order a rack!

Replaced wax motor and soap dispenser (all one piece). Only problem was the plastic seal on the very bottom of door had come unseated, and therefore was leaking. You need to check that it is snapped all the way in, and then the leak ceased. Took me a few tries, which made a ten minute repair into an hour long one.

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

after checking all the list of possible causes, i took it outdoors and hooked it up to the hose and plugged it in, checking for leaks, etc.........noticed the discharge pump was heating up too hot to lay hand on it. decided that was the problem. order part, got it next day, installed in a few minutes and then reinstalled dishwasher under counter. being an amateur, i piddled around several hours before diagnosing the problem. was happy that the new motor solved it. my wife thinks i'm a hero now.

After powering off and shutting off valves, removed dishwasher from cabinet area, laid machine onto front face, removed and replaced inlet sump and drain pump assembly and re-installed. Inlet sump a bit tricky due to the configuration and alignment of integral port. Once in place this was secured very simply. I did use a zip tie to hold the drain pump assembly in a more secure arrangement for moving the dishwasher. Rack wheels were very simple to install.

Using a screw driver I unlatched the door allowing it to open. Removing the 12 or so screws on the inside panel of the door allowed access to the latching mechanism. Removing the broken door latch handle, I replaced it and the new spring. Reattaching the back panel by replacing the screws the job was done.

Turned unit over making sure to put towels down after vacuuming up all water that I could. After that I Released two clamps and simply inserted the drain assembly tubing. Turned everything together put everything back and it worked like a charm

It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.

Open dishwasher. Remove the screws on plastic cover of door. To cover off back of plunger replaced with new one. Reinstalled screws in door and everything worked

My dishwasher being 12 years old had accumulated a fair amount of debris/muck in the sump area located near the back beneath a plastic cage. I removed the cage and cleaned out the sump area. That solved the standing water issue for about two months and then it returned but this time the water depth was about 4 inches compared to an inch. I then changed out the "piston and nut assembly" which is a very easy repair but in my case didn't fix the problem. I then replaced the "check flapper valve" (ie check valve) located in the back and underneath where the drain line connects. That solved the problem and it is working better than it has for years. In doing this repair, one must disconnect the drain line. In so doing, I noticed the drain line was completely clogged for a distance of 12-18 inches where it connects to the garbage disposal. It took me 20 minutes to clean out the drain line. So there were probably several issues, all involving debris/muck buildup and a failed check valve that caused the standing water problem. My advice, since parts are relatively cheap, is to purchase the 1) piston and nut assembly, 2) flapper check valve, and 3) drain line if your dishwasher is fairly old or is used hard. You also will need to clean out the sump area by removing the trash rack cage. Replacing the flapper check valve is the most involved, so you may want to do the other things first to see if they solve the problem and then tackle replacement of the flapper check valve and drain line. By the way, GE parts blow-up diagrams don't even show or list the flapper check valve part. I won't have known about it if it wasn't for a post by someone else on this website. My flapper check valve was slightly torn at the hinge preventing it from seating properly. NOTE that the replacement valve was a bit oversized (it did not have the same diameter as the old valve)for the drain line opening for my particular model and it took some careful finesse to get it to stay in position while replacing the threaded cap that holds it into place. So don't be discouraged if it takes a few attempts to get it to stay in place and oriented properly when replacing the cap. The hinge should be at the top and the word "OUT" shown on the valve being visible (facing away from the dishwasher). This particular fix would be very much helped by an instructional video by this website. I am mechanically inclined so it was easy for me to figure it out but that might not be the case with others.

I opened the door and removed the inner panel with eight Phillips screws. I separated the inner panel from the door front exposing the Cover Interlock. I removed the damaged Cover Interlock with a small standard screwdriver. I replaced the new Cover Interlock by aligning the tabs and locking all four of them securely in place. I placed the inner panel together with the door front and fastened it with the eight screws. Job complete.

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.