GERC4110PT0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!

1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!

only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one

I dismounted the oven door following the graphic templates that this site has for that model. Then I replaced the gasquet (seal window), appliying an apoxic glue to hold it on place. Then I started to put it togueter, from the bottom to the top, first the lower trim, I screwed it back to the metal frame, then the left and right trims, it goes tied by pressing it to the sides, after that I installed the top and screwed it to the frame. It holded all toguether cery well. My oven looks like new now.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

We cheated; a local appliance repair company was called & the tech guy repaired it in 10 - 20 minutes. Couldn't be happier.

Remove the side covers. Remove the 2 screws on the back side of the door, hold on to the glass and front panel, they will fall out. remove the 2 screws holding the handle. Put the new handle in place and insert screws, note the old handle had metal inserts that are threaded, the new does not. Had to push very hard and let the screws bite into the plastic.

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

Watched video & did just guy in video did. Very easy job & the burner works like new.

This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021.
George Clark

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place