GDF520PSD1SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed toe kick. Removed door counter weights and placed door on soft surface. Removed two bolts(I was able to leave hinges in place) slid door panel down and off. Removed plastic snap fit cover and 4 bolts from UI board. Two of the stand-offs where broken, glued them back into place. Ensured jumpers were set to my model, snapped cover back in place and remounted door. The dishwasher now runs through the cycle and clean light but did not dry. That turned out to be a bad flood switch.

The dishwasher had been installed before we added 3/4 oak floor, so I could not pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. That will be a major project when the dishwasher dies.
To remove the door, I removed the two 1/4 " screws on the right and left bottom of the door. I used a box wrench since that was the only way to reach them. One had corroded due to a leak. it took some coaxing but finally came loose. The hint about opening the door 27 degrees and propping it open with two Allan wrenches through the hinge holes was very helpful. Then I lifted the door a little and gently pushed toward the counter releasing the door form the hinges. I took the door off to find a leak and found the right corner edge of the inside tub had cracked. Not sure how this happened. I cleaned and sanded the crack area and used J-B Weld to epoxy the crack. Replacing the gasket was easy. Slide out the old, slide in the new. Everything went back together smoothly. If I hadn't needed to repair the tub, the hint about opening the door all the way and sliding it out part way might have worked to change the gasket. Note. Unlike a stove door the dishwasher door is not that heavy.

I watched a step by step video provided on the Fix It app. Easy to follow directions and only took minutes to tear apart and put back together. Didn't even require help from my husband. Although the latch and striker were not the problem, contacted parts select and they then recommended the electronic control board, they ordered it, had it shipped to me within a few days, another really easy fix I did using the You tube video. Fixed the problem lickety-split. I will never go without my fix it app. Entered all my appliances. Sure beats spending hundreds on appliance repairmen! Thank you Parts Select!

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.

I removed the old gasket and installed the new one in the same position as the one I removed. I had to feel with my fingers for the ridge to insert the gasket so that it would hold. I must admit that I was skeptical that it would work (the old one didn't even seem very damaged). I ran a cycle and there was no more leaking. We've been using the dishwasher ever since with no issues of leakage.

Very satisfied customer.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

The service lady looked up possible trouble items and narrowed it down to the flood switch. Being the most likely cause, I ordered a new one. I removed both trays, the lower sprayer, and both screens. The flood switch has an electric plug on the bottom of it that just pulls off. Just as with other appliance repairs, I actually got the old flood switch to work again before trying the new one. I should have tried to free up the float before ordering the new one. But in case this happens again, I’ll just put the new one in.

Repair was simple, lower rack just remove and replaced with out any tools or disassemble required, for the upper rack installation, the end cap need to be removed out of the sliding tracks, slide old rack out and discard, clean the track with a suitable cloth and slide new rack in to the tracks, reinstall the old end caps, as a good preventing measure, order new end caps just in case they are need it if the old ones crack during removal.
save old rollers from old racks for future repairs

Online instructions said to remove door. Found no need to. Only need to release one hinge by sliding door upward after removing 2 screws at bottom edge of door which releases both hinges. With door lifted just pry out old seal (it will be stuck so use a strong screwdriver). Then slide new seal in place. Lower door back down on hinge. Job done.

The replacement of the parts was simple enough, but the board appears to need a jumper which was not in the original board.

The start button works, but beeps three times and doesn’t start the washer

*Unplug the dishwasher. My drain hose was long enough so no need to disconnect.
Access the motherboard and found a solid green light. This indicates the motherboard is not communicating with the user interface.

Door removal:
- removed kick plate
-unplugged door wire assembly and wire harness clip
-Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pull dishwasher out about 6 inches
-Detached pulley rope assembly from door hinge
-Open door about 4 inches and pull up and towards me.
-Lay the door down, removed vent cap and four T20 screws from the side bottom, remove two 1/4 inch bolt from each hinge(the hinges have four bolts, but only to need to be removed)
-push up on the plastic inner door from outer door and set aside.
-Unscrew four 1/4 inch bolts holding user interface and unplug wire assembly. (The two middle screws are longer than the two outer screws)
-be sure to ground yourself before touching the new user interface board
-read the instructions for the new interface board clip positions(mine was already position correctly)
-Assemble the door and be sure to connect the wire assembly and harness clip.

My son did the repair, I ordered both latch and striker, only needed the latch...only took him a few minutes to remove the old and install the new and works just fine

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

Release DW from cabinet and pull out, Unplug power.
Remove kick plate and unplug door cable.
Open door about 6 inches and using socket back out 2 bolts at bottom of door corners.
Pull door up off hinges about 4 inches and slide old gasket out and install new gasket in place.
Reset door on hinges and reinstall bolts.
Plug door cable in and reattach kick plate and plug power cable in.
Push DW back in place and attach to cabinet and adjust kick plate

Some of these other instructions may be for other models. This is specifically for GDT530PGD2BB, which doesn't present screws on the inner side of the door.

I'm extremely reluctant to do anything more than the repair at hand, so I didn't move the dishwasher out of its recessed cabinet, which would make the repair easier. I also did not remove the connector plug from the dishwasher to the door, since there was enough slack to do the repair without this step.

1. Turn off power to the dishwasher.

2. Under the bottom of the door, there are two 1/4" hex screws that can be removed with a small socket wrench, or if you moved the dishwasher out, you can tip it over slightly and get at these screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

3. With those out, you can open the door flat and slide it off it's hinges *just a little bit*. You need maybe an inch or so clearance to slide the old gasket out and slide the new one in. I had to use pliers to remove the old, very damaged gasket, but the new one easily slid into place.

4. Were you able to just move the door out a bit without removing it totally from the hinges? Great! Slide it back, put those screws in the bottom again, and you've done it! Probably in minutes!

5. Or, you could be like me and accidentally lift the door too far and have one of the hinges pop out. If I had someone helping me, it would have taken half a minute to put the door back on its hinges, but I was by myself, so I had to finagle something to keep the hinges open (two screwdrivers wedged handle first), so I could slide the door back on the hinges. That took me about 10 minutes. ¯\_(?)_/¯

Good luck!