Models > GD5RHAXNB00 > Instructions

GD5RHAXNB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for GD5RHAXNB00 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GD5RHAXNB00
16-30 of 1529
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.

  • Customer: Cathy from Winter Park FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 76 of 84 people found this instruction helpful
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

Pur Water filter ruptured could not remove from housing

  • Customer: George from Hernando MS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 111 of 198 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws holding the filter housing. Pulled filter and housing out far enough to remove inlet and outlet lines.Replaced inlet and outlet lines( precautionary) in filter housing, installed new filter.

Ice Maker stopped working

  • Customer: Robert from Port Washington NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 69 of 79 people found this instruction helpful
With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.

Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)

However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.

Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.

Screwed in the new unit.

Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.

1 hour later ice was falling!

Warm Air Getting Into Freezer

  • Customer: David from Chesterfield MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 72 of 89 people found this instruction helpful
Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring panel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!

Broken Criper drawer

  • Customer: Victor from Morgan Hill CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 92 of 156 people found this instruction helpful
First I opened the fridge and removed the broken drawer. I then removed the new drawer from its shipping container and placed it on the tracks in the fridge. I then closed the fridge. Perfect!

No water flow to ice maker. Motor works perfectly.

  • Customer: Barbara from Heath TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 93 of 165 people found this instruction helpful
After cutting supply line to ice maker and using syringe to back feed ice maker discharge outlet- I learned that there was no freeze blockage in supply.
Using nut driver, the valve was removed and electrical and water lines removed and reinstalled on new valve.
Reinstallation of assembly using nut driver completed the whole repair in less than 5 minutes.
The part was a perfect match.

Thanks

where ic e dispencer spring is held to door broke at mold

  • Customer: helen j from murrells inlet SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 61 of 73 people found this instruction helpful
after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keeper and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine

Controller Board replacement

  • Customer: Margaret from San diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 52 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
The refrigerator light went out and a bulb replacement did not correct. Also the temperature indicators were not on. There was a clicking noise each time the door was opened, coming from the back lower corner of the refrigerator. The repair man said it would be $500+ to fix! We found the board on this website. Consult the manual for where this is located, but on my model it was on the refrigerator side, in the back on the floor level. In a white plastic box the size of the board +. It is located on the lower left on the side of the cabinet. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall, remove the back cardboard cover. Remove the box, and the board comes out, open the box, inside there are 3 connections and a holding clip. Replace the board and put it back in. The put the box back in to the refrigerator. We kept the old one for a couple of days because the components had been changed since our refrigerator was made, but it functions exactly the same. Piece of cake! Saved $400!

water slowly leaking from fill tube- overflowing ice tray

  • Customer: Michael from Franksville WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 53 of 59 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged fridge, turned off water supply, disconnected water supply line (towel to catch drainage). remove cardboard lower panel from back of fridge. remove 2 bolts holding existing water inlet valve assy to fridge. Disconnect 2 electric plugs from assy. water lines disconnect using push/pull method (mark where they go). If any water tube line has any surface imperfections trim off a small length of line using a razor knife (cut tubing perpendicular (or "square" )on the end. I had to remove small unused part from the new water inlet valve assy. Insert the 3 water lines to the correct spots: push them on,fully, give a tug to make sure they are connected fully. Reattach the 2 electrical plugs.Bolt the unit back in place. I connected the water & plugged it in, filled about 10 glasses of water and made sure an ice cycle ran, to check for leaks (none found). I cleaned off some of the dust on the back of the fridge, reattached the cardboard lower piece. and listened to the sweet sound of Ice filling, and not my wallet emptying to the service man!!

The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.

  • Customer: David from Chester CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 56 of 69 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

No water from front dispenser, ice still working

  • Customer: Trent from Richmond VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 54 of 69 people found this instruction helpful
First checked to make sure the water reserve line inside fridge wasn't frozen (soaked coil at back of fridge in a container of warm water for 10 min). That seemed fine and icemaker was still working so assumed that portion of the water inlet valve feeding water line wasn't working. Video on PartSelect website showing how to replace the valve was spot on and gave me confidence to install myself. Part arrived within two days and installation was done in a snap exactly as shown in video. All the lines & wire harnesses fit perfectly, water & ice working great, and I couldn't be more pleased.

Ice maker stopped making ice.

  • Customer: Thomas from Riverside CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 47 of 50 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the power cord of the refrigerator from the receptacle. I then removed the screws (3 each) from both the emitter and receiver face plates with a phillips screw driver. I than carefully removed the connector to the each of the circuit boards. A simple pull maneuver. I removed the circuit boards from the face plates. I took the new parts and put them back in reverse order. I put the power cord back in the receptacle.

Icemaker made a clicking noise then quit making ice

  • Customer: Ryan from Layton UT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 46 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
Motor from Part Select was 185W instead of 260W that came out of unit. After a bit of searching online, I found out the 260W had been obsoleted for lack of torque when harvesting ice.

Removal instructions: Unplugged fridge. Then I removed the screw on the bottom right rear of the unit. Then removed the plastic cover that covered the power connector. Pulled out the icemaker by pushing in the tab on the bottom left middle of the icemaker unit and pulling unit toward me. Unplugged the connector on the back right hand side. Removed the cover on the left side covering motor. Took out 3 philips screws and removed old motor with broken axle that spun freely (the source of the clicking noise). Put new motor in aligning harvest arm (the thing with the fingers) and did reverse of removal. Then plugged fridge back in and it started a harvest and the next morning I had a half tub of ice.

No ice in ice trey

  • Customer: Wayne from Leesburg FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 41 of 47 people found this instruction helpful
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

Ice maker just stopped working..

  • Customer: RICHARD T. from PATERSON NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 39 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
Did the diagnostics with the blinking light and couldn't decide what was bad....so ordered the control boards and the module motor assm. also. Turned out that it was the control boards and would suggest that future customers order that part first...if it isn't that then get the module and motor assm......these guys ship really fast and the prices are literally half of what Sears would charge, not to also mention the cost of their service man to walk through your door...OUCH!
All Instructions for the GD5RHAXNB00
16-30 of 1529