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Oven wasn't staying on and or re-lighting, recycling to maintain the set Temp.
Opened the oven door, removed the racks. Removed the bottom cover, two thumb screws in the rear, bottom, of the oven. This exposed the top plate of the burner, (actually in the top of the broiler section) 1 nut took this cover off. Now, the burner and the igniter are exposed. Two screws removed the igniter, and two wires with ceramic wire nuts. Disconnected these two wires and that was it. Installed the new igniter in reverse procedure as above. Pretty easy. Probably should have turned off the power to the Range first just to be safe.
This hard to find GE part number was easy to find at PartSelect.com. The GE dealer said the part was permanently out of stock. Lift lid and remove a few screws and pull off two wires and replace switch plate and reconnect everything. Good to go.
oven very slow on heating up up to five minutes to ignite.
First removed oven racks then two screws to remove oven door, removed two screw of oven fan cover, ( need to remove fan cover to have clearance to removed bottom cover of oven) removed bottom cover of oven, then removed two screws holding oven igniter and cut wires of old igniter then spliced wire of new igniter to existing wire and reassemble in reverse order.
Removing the drip pan and the bottom burner cover exposed the igniter, removing two screws retaining the bracket freed the old igniter. Removing the warming drawer allowed access to the control module to unplug the wiring on the ignitor. After making myself a diagram, I unplugged the wires and removed the malfunctioning igniter. Cutting the leads off the old igniter long enough to splice it on below the oven bottom with the enclosed wire nuts and attaching the new igniter (reusing the old insulation to protect the wire) took only minutes and reassembly was straightforward.
New igniter: $60 Repairman fee saved $150 Being able to tell my wife "See, I told you I could fix it!" PRICELESS
Disconnected the oven from the wall outlet. Removed the bottom panel of the oven to reach the parts. Reached in the thight spot (not for a big guy)to unscrew the old igniter. Installed the new one. Plug the oven back. Turn the oven on bake at 350. Oveb lighted up in 5 seconds ! Working great since then!!!
See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.
Disconnected power cord to range Removed the cover over the flame guard Removed the Flame guard Pulled out broiler drawer Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor Cut the two wires from the old ignitor Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector Installed the new ignitor Reassembled parts dsassembled Plugged in power cord
Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!
Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.
Took a long time to light oven, smell of gas, slow heat up.
Really easy to do, did not have to bring stove out from the wall! Turn power off to the stove. Remove the lower drawer. Remove the oven rakes. With a slotted screwdriver remove two screws in back of bottom oven cover, use 1/4 inch socket to remove two screws in front. Remove bottom oven cover. You can then see the part to be removed which has two wires going into it, the unit looks identical to the new part which heats up and lights the gas grill for the oven. I cut the two wires from the old part, remember which is the upper and lower; remove two screws holding onto part. Wire new part remembering top and bottom. Push extra wire down into bottom drawer and then mount new part with two screws. Turn power back on and try oven. Lite right away for me so I knew I had replaced the bad part. Reassemble and Enjoy!!
I determined the safety valve must be defective. The model number of the Okeefe-Merrit/Tappan/Frigidaire/Electrolux stove (27 yrs old) could not be found online nor at Frigidaire's parts call center. However, due to Partselect's most helpful picture parts pages, I was able to find my valve with the part number clearly showing for me to see. No picture, no resolution. The info sheet with the part was beneficial and placement time was 15 minutes.
I raised the cook top and removed the fuse in the back, right corner and shut off gas at front left corner. After using meter to be sure there was no power, I marked the wires as front and back, disconnected them using needle nose, disconnected gas line using two wrenches, removed three screws in retaining bracket before sliding unit out. Installation was the reverse.
With fuse replaced before installation I measured 120 volts across the two wires. (Don't try to do it hot.) When attached to the valve the measure went down to 2.9 volts. After installation and all restored, it took about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes for ignition.
I may have saved myself the purchase of a new stove just now, but after 27 years I think she is going to want a new kitchen. It was worth the repair and Partselect was prompt with the delivery. Happiness returns to a disgruntled cook.