GC2328PED5 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Nothing to it. I unpackaged the item. Cleaned it and placed in refrigerator. Great!

Dealing with your company was a breeze. From start to finish. Thank you for the transation from start to finish.

simple removal of old part by lifting and pulling, Reverse to put in new part. Not really even classified as "repair"

First I removed the three screws in the top hinge that hold the upper right corner of the door to the body of the unit. Then I just lifted the door off of the refrigerator. I proped the door up just long enough to pull out the old pin (plastic) and put the new one in place. Next I picked up the door and set it on the new hinge, and last I put the three screws back into place. It has taken me about as long to type this out as it did to actually make the repair. The part was also very reasonably priced so I purchased two since this items has been replaced previously.

Pulled broken plastic end stop from door. Basket fits right into the two side holes and pulls down to lock. Relatively easy fix and replacing basket stop.

There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.

Replacing the hinge pin itself is really easy. Most important is to brace the bottom of the door before replacing the pin, otherwise the door will drop as the bottom hinge must be removed to install the new pin.

A couple of short lengths of 2x4s used to brace the door bottom worked fine. With these in place the door did not drop down after removing the hinge. Replacement of the hinge and pin easy.

just snapped the new one in. I am very happy. the part was delivered in just a few days--I was surprised how quickly it was delivered. thank you. I would use your company again.

Ordered the parts, snapped them into place on the basket and then slid the arms into the holes on the freezer door, very very simple..

I opened the box, unwrapped the new ice pan, gave it a cursory rinse, and put it in the freezer.

Went to PartsSelect. Put in Dishwasher model number. Chose the screws for that model number. Ordered the screws. Can't get any easier than that!

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Repair requires the removal of the bottom hinges on the doors. No problem for the refrigerator side, but the freezer side has wiring in the freezer door for the water/ice dispenser, so have some wood blocks handy to prop it up. Biggest challenge is that in the center of the kickplate there is a mounting screw (Torx head) that is behind the kickplate and runs vertically. I removed the old kickplate without removing this screw, just broke the kickplate off. The screw is very difficult to access with any tool. Removal wasn't too terrible because the old kickplate was gone; but insertion with the new kickplate in place was a challenge. I used a Torx socket, but because there isn't enough clearance for the ratchet, I held the socket into place by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between the bottom of the socket and the floor. I was just able to get my index finger under the new kickplate to slowly turn the socket to fasten the screw. Unfortunately I didn't feel as though I could skip the screw - without it the kickplate sags in the center.

This was easy. Removed the plastic cover at the top hinge. Removed the 3 screws at the top hinge. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and laid it on it's side. The part that was worn out is the "natural door closer". It looks like this part will need to be replaced every few years, it is made of plastic and was ground down to nubs. Remove the screws holding it down and replace it with the new one. Lubed it up with some WD40 to get rid of squeaks. I also replaced the lower hinge pin, but I don't think that was necessary.