GC2327PEDB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Nothing to it. I unpackaged the item. Cleaned it and placed in refrigerator. Great!

Dealing with your company was a breeze. From start to finish. Thank you for the transation from start to finish.

First I removed the three screws in the top hinge that hold the upper right corner of the door to the body of the unit. Then I just lifted the door off of the refrigerator. I proped the door up just long enough to pull out the old pin (plastic) and put the new one in place. Next I picked up the door and set it on the new hinge, and last I put the three screws back into place. It has taken me about as long to type this out as it did to actually make the repair. The part was also very reasonably priced so I purchased two since this items has been replaced previously.

Pulled broken plastic end stop from door. Basket fits right into the two side holes and pulls down to lock. Relatively easy fix and replacing basket stop.

There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.

Replacing the hinge pin itself is really easy. Most important is to brace the bottom of the door before replacing the pin, otherwise the door will drop as the bottom hinge must be removed to install the new pin.

A couple of short lengths of 2x4s used to brace the door bottom worked fine. With these in place the door did not drop down after removing the hinge. Replacement of the hinge and pin easy.

Ordered the parts, snapped them into place on the basket and then slid the arms into the holes on the freezer door, very very simple..

I opened the box, unwrapped the new ice pan, gave it a cursory rinse, and put it in the freezer.

just snapped the new one in. I am very happy. the part was delivered in just a few days--I was surprised how quickly it was delivered. thank you. I would use your company again.

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Repair requires the removal of the bottom hinges on the doors. No problem for the refrigerator side, but the freezer side has wiring in the freezer door for the water/ice dispenser, so have some wood blocks handy to prop it up. Biggest challenge is that in the center of the kickplate there is a mounting screw (Torx head) that is behind the kickplate and runs vertically. I removed the old kickplate without removing this screw, just broke the kickplate off. The screw is very difficult to access with any tool. Removal wasn't too terrible because the old kickplate was gone; but insertion with the new kickplate in place was a challenge. I used a Torx socket, but because there isn't enough clearance for the ratchet, I held the socket into place by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between the bottom of the socket and the floor. I was just able to get my index finger under the new kickplate to slowly turn the socket to fasten the screw. Unfortunately I didn't feel as though I could skip the screw - without it the kickplate sags in the center.

This was easy. Removed the plastic cover at the top hinge. Removed the 3 screws at the top hinge. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and laid it on it's side. The part that was worn out is the "natural door closer". It looks like this part will need to be replaced every few years, it is made of plastic and was ground down to nubs. Remove the screws holding it down and replace it with the new one. Lubed it up with some WD40 to get rid of squeaks. I also replaced the lower hinge pin, but I don't think that was necessary.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.