GBS279PVQ02 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

My oven (late 90's/early 2000's model) didn't have the flip-down hinge locks shown in the video. It seems Whirlpool/Kitchenaid changed the hinges even though they didn't change the model number of the oven. With my style hinges, you have to put Allen wrenches or bent nails in the holes just behind the hinge pins. Then close the door almost all the way and lift it out to separate the hinges. Spring force holds the nails in tightly until you replace the door. This video was very helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7oRZdIN6m0

Also, my door had 3 different kinds of sheet metal screws. Two of them have similar heads but different threads. Keep track of which is which for when you put everything back together.

Watched the repair video and started the project. Ran into a problem when trying to remove the interior panel off the door to reach the broken interior glass. On this model Kitchen Aid there is another section that is screwed in holding the exterior glass pieces in place. It prevents the interior panel from coming off the front of the oven door. So we had to flip over the door and unscrew the glass retaining bars to get the interior panel off and reach the glass. This allows the entire door to come apart in pieces so you have to carefully line up everything to re-assemble the door. Part of the issue with this is some of the retaining screws are not very long so you have to press the pieces back together to make sure the screw will catch in the original hole. We had to do this twice to ensure the interior door glass was laying flush on its mounts. A bit fiddly for sure, and if I was working alone it may not have been successful. But at least we know how the door is put together!

Thanks to video provided by PartSelect the repair was fast and easy. My second experience with an appliance repair with parts and video from PartSelect. I am a happy customer.

I watched the video on the product page and followed it step by step. Not difficult at all.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

I follow the directions on the Maytag site. It is a very simple job. I appreciate the Information I got from Becky when ordering the hinges.

Installed a new thermostat and noticed the convection heating element wire had burned in two. Ordered new element and installed. Oven is currently working properly again.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

Simple - Removed oven door attached retainer with screw.Re attached door.

Whirlpool wanted three time the cost of the same parts The only shipping option was Fedex Overnight which was very costly.

Your prices are great "Parts Select".

Jan

Removed wall oven from wall. Removed back cover. Unscrewed thermastat and removed old thermastat. Screwed in new thermastat and put back together.

I am not a big do-it-yourselfer, so maybe I might have found this more difficult than expected. When I first looked at the oven before ordering the part, I saw a couple of screws and it seemed like an easy task. However, I found that I had to remove to whole door first, which was actually easy. Then I started to remove the case. Then I removed several layers of a puzzle. Oven door had 3 pieces of glass and 3 metal brackets. The installation video was for a completely different oven. Although I got out the broken glass easily, I had difficulty reassembling. The oven diagram for the parts was even deceiving. I had to involve my spouse and after an hour of cursing everything, we finally managed to get the thing back together. Whoever designed this oven must have been a deranged German scientist. However, everything is back to normal and I probably saved a couple hundred bucks for a repairman.

The only difficult part of this repair was figuring out how to get the oven door off. Most instructions advise you to flip the hinge locking clips, then lift off the door. But this oven does not have hinge locking clips. What it has is holes in the hinges, just behind the hinge pins. To get the door off, you need to open the door and insert some 3/16' pins in those holes, then close the door and lift it off. I almost got this right the first time, but I used 1/8" pins, and they didn't work, too small. It took me a long time to figure out to use bigger pins. Once the door is off, it's just a few Philips screws to work your way down to the glass. There are 4 layers of glass in this door.

I followed these instructions put in by a fellow customer. These were very helpful. Just make sure the glass is finger print free before you put it all back together. My time was 30 minutes end to end. =========================== The first thing I did was to remove the oven door by releasing the two latches on the hinges (by hand). I then raised the door toward the vertical position and lifted up. The hinges slide out of the oven housing. I laid the door, inside face up on my island counter top. This ensures that none of the parts will fall when disassembling the door. Next I unscrewed the screws 4 top and bottom and four on the inside face. This releases the frame from the front housing. Lift the frame off the door, exposing the glass pieces. Lift off the broken inside glass and place the new piece in the glass retaining housing. Replace the outside frame and replace all screws. Take door back over to oven and slide hinge bottoms back into slots on oven. Rotate to horizontal position and flip latches back to locked position. Total time was about 10 minutes mainly because I was curious how the door was constructed and I poked around while it was disassembled

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.