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wire came loose and shorted out
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
We followed the instructions given by Parts Service. The only problem we had (Whirlpool left two screws out of spacer bracket and it fell out requiring further removable of inner glass to replace spacer. Process took about twenty minutes.
I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.
Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.
Replacing the interior oven door glass was the easy part. I'm still struggling with getting the hinges on the door to reinstall. Following all the installation instructions, but they still won't stay in place and door keeps coming out from frame.
By reversing the way I removed the door hinges from the frame, per the reinstall instructions. I called the 800# and they emailed me a diagram, but the hinges depicted were different than mine. When my back feels better, I'll keep trying.
Lower heating elememt was not working and required replacement
1. REMEMBERED TO SHUT OFF THE APPLICABLE 240V BREAKER. 2. Carefully removed the 2 screws holding the element to the oven structure 3. Carefully extracted the 2 wires from the holes at the rear. 4. Carefully removed the wires from the old element 5. Attached the wire sockets to the new element. 6. Carefully eased the wires back through the holes at the rear 7. Attached the 2 screws through the element holding clamp to the rear wall of the oven. Everything went better than I had expected.
Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.
After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.
Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.
I cracked the interior glass door by dropping a dish on it.
Removing the door was the first challenge but once the door was off it was a matter of disassembling the door to get access to the interior door. If you remove all pieces and line them up in the order that they are removed you have a good chance for success.
after a self-cleaning cycle, oven would not warm (broiler didn't work either)
I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.