GBD277PRQ01 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

I turn off the power in the breaker box and then unscrew the part and replace it with the new one

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

EASY. FOLLOWED THE YOUTUBE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE WEBSITE.

Easily, Removed the oven with help of my grandson, this model is quite heavy. Open the back cover panel, removed the old blower. replaced with the new blower, covered with the back protective panel. About one hour because some screws much harder to reach.

We followed the instructions given by Parts Service. The only problem we had (Whirlpool left two screws out of spacer bracket and it fell out requiring further removable of inner glass to replace spacer. Process took about twenty minutes.

My oven (late 90's/early 2000's model) didn't have the flip-down hinge locks shown in the video. It seems Whirlpool/Kitchenaid changed the hinges even though they didn't change the model number of the oven. With my style hinges, you have to put Allen wrenches or bent nails in the holes just behind the hinge pins. Then close the door almost all the way and lift it out to separate the hinges. Spring force holds the nails in tightly until you replace the door. This video was very helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7oRZdIN6m0

Also, my door had 3 different kinds of sheet metal screws. Two of them have similar heads but different threads. Keep track of which is which for when you put everything back together.

The tech said he used No 2 Phillip's. Once I took the door off and removed the racks I quickly learned a Phillips was not going to work. I am now the proud owner of a Kobslt star and square ratchet screwdriver.

Watched the repair video and started the project. Ran into a problem when trying to remove the interior panel off the door to reach the broken interior glass. On this model Kitchen Aid there is another section that is screwed in holding the exterior glass pieces in place. It prevents the interior panel from coming off the front of the oven door. So we had to flip over the door and unscrew the glass retaining bars to get the interior panel off and reach the glass. This allows the entire door to come apart in pieces so you have to carefully line up everything to re-assemble the door. Part of the issue with this is some of the retaining screws are not very long so you have to press the pieces back together to make sure the screw will catch in the original hole. We had to do this twice to ensure the interior door glass was laying flush on its mounts. A bit fiddly for sure, and if I was working alone it may not have been successful. But at least we know how the door is put together!

1) Removed the trim pieces (2 screws). 2) removed the 2 screws holding the oven in the wall. 3) Slid the oven out of the wall cabinet 4) removed the back panel of the oven ( 10 screws. 5.) removed the old thermostat (2 nuts) 6.). Installed the new thermostat and reversed steps 4-1

Unplugged old element unit and plugged in new element. Took two needle nose pliers and a flexible body. Took about 5 minutes. Works fine. Anybody can do it. Make sure power is off at the box.

I looked up the problem and determined I needed to replace the limit switch which is inside the back panel. As a 78 year old woman who isn't afraid to tackle these problems I found this easier than most. Just be sure to disconnect the electrical connection if you don't have long enough length to pull oven from the wall cabinet. I won't put any sheet pans in the oven next time I self clean it.

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Removed locking device

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.