FWS1233AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Received lid lock within 24 hours, fixed washer within 10 minutes...up and running. Thanks.

I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.

After turning the water off and removing the hoses,I pulled the top off by removing the 2 screws from the clips in the back and popping the 2 spring clips in the front. I then removed the 2 side screws left and right to allow room for the sides to move out of the way of the motor. The back panel is spot welded so the panels stayed connected. I then removed the 2 screws from the water overflow guard on the motor. Once removed I unplugged the wire harness from the motor. After that the 4 nuts were taken off of the bottom of the motor. I pushed the belt tensioner in and pulled the motor out. Install the motor making sure the nuts are tight as they can work loose from vibration.

My washing machine stopped agitating and spinning and I couldn't afford a repair man...plus I wanted to exhaust any obvious problems first. One of the leveler feet had broken years ago. Since I luckily had determined via reading other posts that the agitator won't work if the cycle safety switch is not functioning right, I thought the safety switch might need to be changed but after careful thought, I decided to order a new levelling leg first because maybe the broken levelling leg was shaking the safety switch so it wasn't connecting right. Once I received the leg overnight, I flipped the washer on its side and had to drill out the old leg. It was a little tricky because of how it broke, but the drill worked. I flipped the washer back up, leveled it with the new foot, and the agitator was miraculously working again...just like new. I didn't need the safety switch. Thanks to partselect.com for having the details of my washer parts to study up on and get me the right part so quickly. I saved myself alot of money.

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.

Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.

I pulled the old motor out of the bottom of the washer. After undoing the screws and taking off the belt. I threw the new one in and tightened everything up and put the belt back on and it worked great... Super easy to change a motor out and a lot cheaper than buying a new waher...

The best part was that it only took one day to ship to my house and I picked the cheapest shipping amount... I recommend this site..

followed the instructions on a blog

Lifted top
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal
replaced,replaced.....

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, the machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.