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Broken Belt
I read the others repair story and it was a easy repair, my wife had a repairman come out and check it already, he stated to her that it was a major repair and that he needed to take it to the shop for repair, well he was full of sh##!!! The unit is a stackable washer dryer,if the screws inside the drum backout, the belt comes off and caused mine to brake the belt,my wife found the 2 small screws in the bottom of the tub,theres a small cover on the back that you remove and you can see belt drive pully! Follow the directions that have been explained on others listed it"s easy!!! Mike
I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.
Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet. 1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front 2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer 3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws 4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates) 5) Set front panel to side 6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal 7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked. 8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover. 9) Finish taking screw out by hand 10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal. 11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel 12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap 13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws 14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body
My washing machine stopped agitating and spinning and I couldn't afford a repair man...plus I wanted to exhaust any obvious problems first. One of the leveler feet had broken years ago. Since I luckily had determined via reading other posts that the agitator won't work if the cycle safety switch is not functioning right, I thought the safety switch might need to be changed but after careful thought, I decided to order a new levelling leg first because maybe the broken levelling leg was shaking the safety switch so it wasn't connecting right. Once I received the leg overnight, I flipped the washer on its side and had to drill out the old leg. It was a little tricky because of how it broke, but the drill worked. I flipped the washer back up, leveled it with the new foot, and the agitator was miraculously working again...just like new. I didn't need the safety switch. Thanks to partselect.com for having the details of my washer parts to study up on and get me the right part so quickly. I saved myself alot of money.
unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.
Drum making thumping noises, clothes getting caught behind drum.
I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.
Washer machine would fill up with water and not spin and drain
Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.
The part number was on the knob itself. I did a google search and found it at this site and ordered it. My initial surprise was how fast i received the part. I installed it in about 3 seconds and it's been fine ever since.
I will definitely use this site again. Easy part identification and FAST SHIPPING!
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.
This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.
Dryer would not start. When turning on, I could hear faint humming, but the motor would not start.
1) Unplug the unit. 2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing. 3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front. 4) Disconnect the two wires 5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall. 6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced. 7) Clean any lint that you can at this point. 8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter 9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter. 10) Attach the top of the dryer case.
From previous responses on this site. I just followed their lead. If I had not found these folks, and the responses, it would have been a nightmare. It looked like and I thought the dryer came apart from the back! But in reality it comes apart from the front!! Absolutely fantastic site and help. Fast shipping, I ordered on Wednesday before Labor Day, didn't expect the parts until the following Wednesday, but received the parts on Saturday morning, and had the dryer back running by Sunday AM. Never even ran out of clean clothes!!!!!
Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place. Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
tub won't drain& timer control won't go to correct setting
To replace the pump remove to lower screws on the front panel,remove panel ,pump is in the front section , remove two screws that attach pump to lower housing. To replace timer remove screws on the plate that the contrlos on mounted on. Once you have access to timer you must remove the nylon pin in the back of the timer that holds the dial to the timer base.You can not remove the knob without removing the pin
dryer was making terrible clunking noise when running
This is a stacker washer/dryer combination. Took off the back panel of the dryer, but found out the front needed to come off instead,to replace the blower wheel. This took more time than replacing the wheel. Was pretty easy to get to the wheel and replace. The center part had broken so replaced wheel and clamp. The push in fastner was broke, which held in the lint screen part. Was easy to install this. Dryer sounds as good as it did when it was new. It was very easy to find the correct part and shipping was overnight! Great service.
