FES367DSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I went all the way around the unit and removed screws holding top of unit in place. Removed knobs holding front panel in place. Remove control panel. top should come off. Remove screws attaching element top and metal frame. Undo bracket and remove element. Disconnect wires. Remember where they were attached.
Replace element and reverse steps.

I looked online and read what other people had done. The best advice was keeping all the screws in the order they were taken out. I also separated the screws that had come from the top, sides and inner side of the door. This helped immensely as I reassembled the door. I spread out a heavy garbage bag that I cut open. This kept debris and glass off of my kitchen floor. This is NOT a difficult repair; Parts Select said it would take three days to get me the glass; it arrived in TWO! Start to finish, the entire job took just about an hour. I saved myself over $100, and again, this is NOT difficult!

Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.

Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.

Disconnected power. Removed hold down fasteners for stove top. Fortunately, I did not flue down or use the double back tape to secure stovetop to counter. If this adhesive were used, it is possible I would have had great difficulty in removing range. I did not disconnect the wiring, but turned the range top over to access the cover. I removed the cover and easily removed the failed burner and installed the new ones. I had to pull 4 wires from the terminal strip and reattach them. The hold down strap for the burner was reinstalled. Range top turned back over and fastened down. Back in service.

Based on previous responses we anticipated this repair to be easy, however, it was a little more challenging than expected. The method of repair was easy enough, just would have been better if there had been more wire to pull out to connect to the new bake element. It took two of us to fish for the wires back inside the stove with a needle-nose pliers after removing the element. One had to hold the wire with the pliers while it took the other to attach it to the new element with second pair of pliers as there was no room for using fingers. Retrieving and attaching the second wire to the element was even more challenging because now the half-attached element was in the way. Disappointed and not sure why the element burned out in the first place on a 4year old appliance.

Followed the instruction printed on the page, while ordering the part.

Pull old switches out with pliers and replugged new switches. On main oven, plug casing was melted (wife left broiler on with oven door closed) so had to break apart old casing and individually plug the the wires into new switch and amazingly, it worked! Just gotta keep the door open when broiling.............

1. SHUT OFF POWER TO YOUR RANGE! (I flipped the circuit breaker at the box to do this. To be totally safe, you can shut off the power to the whole house.) 2. Remove the oven racks. 3. Undo the two screws (save for step 8) holding the bake element in place. (This took some doing for me, as the screws did not want to come out easily. Maybe use some penetrating oil and be careful not to strip the screws.) 4. Gently pull the bake element toward you, exposing the contacts and wires. 5. Remove the wires from the old element's contacts. (Remember which contact 6. Attach the wires to the new element's contacts. 7. CAREFULLY push the wires back into the wall of the oven. (Pay attention to the insulation. Make sure that some insulation is near the wall.) 8. Fasten element to wall of oven with screws you saved from step 2.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

Took back off the oven unscrewed the time control scaped old one off and put new one on. Than I put it back together again.
What a great place to shop!!!

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.

Your instructions were spot on. I did have the switch installed 180 degrees out, so I installed it twice. Now I'm a professional. Also gave me opportunity to clean out years of goo in hard to get to places. Next cleaning will be much sooner, now that I know the ease of cover removal. P.S. Great service on delivery. I rec'd part the next day. Nice work guys.