FES353CCWA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

The hardest part of the job was cleaning under the old rings. Cook top looks new again!

used two flat bladed screw drivers to get under edge of switch.. pried one side up and unit popped loose... removed electric connection (three prong recep) and plugged in new switch ..pushed into hole and was done... approximately 3 minutes..

Very simply following the online video instructions.

Replaced element no problem?

After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.

unplugged the elements, removed drip pans, replaced with new drip pans. plugged back in elements. took no skills or effort. the parts were ordered on-line one afternoon and were on my doorstep the next morning. I had been unable to find drip pans that fit my stove and was thrilled that they fit and came so quickly and were reasonably priced.

Square drive screws used throughout the oven since its manufactured in Canada. Shut power down to the range. Element fastener plate removed and 2 electrical terminals loosened. Used a pair of hemostats to hold on to the wires so as not to lose them to the interior back of the oven which was loaded with insulation. Connected the 2 wires to the new element, screwed the element fastening plate with element back to the back of the oven wall. Turned power back on and voila, I was back in business.

Took old one out and plugged the new one into place.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

purchased correct part from PartSelect and it fit like a glove!

The unit is 29 years old. With the 250V breaker off, I removed knobs burners, pans. Removed 4 short and 4 very short screws under knobs. Remove the four tiny pointed screws under the burners to free the top. Propped the top up at an angle with lighting underneath. All 4 switches are now free from control panel. Replaced defective switches while keeping detailed labels on all wires while they are free. Replacement switches had same labels on them as the old ones (H1 H2 L1 L2 P) so wiring was easy. Some connectors needed to be crimped a little tighter. The old switches had low and high amp ranges depending on whether they were for small or large burners while the replacements handled either. Cleaned whole unit. The trickiest part was getting the height of the replacement dial posts right. For one dial the right plastic adapter sleeve went shallowly into the dial while for another the same style adapter penetrated more deeply. Note the adapters have a slot along their shaft that allows them to close slightly in circumference. It is easily possible to crimp down the metal dial posts too far. This did not happen but for one dial I had to hack saw the adapter shorter. Reassembling the control panel is two steps where the short screw attaches the switch to the stovetop and the longer screw attached the switch to the control panel and stovetop. I used the awl for aligning the screw holes. Note, angling the stovetop too far (like the hood of a car) can pull wires off the switches. I think the lens acts to hold the lamp in place but since the lens arrived later, I taped the lamp in place and popped the lens into the assembled unit later. The repair worked well. Two switches cost about 75$