FES330EW0 Roper Range - Instructions

Very easy . Just removed four screws and removed the back cover. Then just unplugged two clips from the element . The repeated all of my steps in reverse . Be sure to unplug the oven before you start on the project .

I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I just put the drip bowl in and plugged in the new heating element and I was done. It heats much faster and is level now so cooking is much easier. Also the parts arrived sooner than I expected, so I was very satisfied overall. Couldn't have been much easier all around. I will use Partselect.com in the future. Thanks

Removed the old burners and lifted top assembly. It made it easier to work with the wires by removing the top, easily remove the screws holding the wire harness and ground wire, then slid the top to the right and it came right off. splicing the wires in was very easy and all the parts required were sent with the kits. reassembled stove and it worked like a champ. The drawer was very easy as well the plastic glides were all broken or worn out, and one screw each to replace. like a new oven now, saved at least 300 by not purchasing a new one.

Slide range out,unplug range,remove rear cover to unplug element wires, open door remove screws inside oven remove element

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

It was simple. Unscrewed to screws at the back of the oven. Slipped off the wire connectors then attached the wire connectors to the new part, put the screws back in and we were back in business.

removed the two screws that held the cook top on and moved it enough to get to the light switch. Removed the switch and tested with multimeter. Pulled the two wires out of the mounting hole and insulated with elect. tape. Replaced the cook top and installed the two screws that hold it in place. Located the switch at PartSelect on line and ordered it. When the switch came in (the next day), I connected the two wires, and snapped the switch in place, and I was back in business.

Un-screwed 4 screws. Got part numbers off of the pieces. Put numbers in blank on web site and ordered the pieces. Parts cam in 4 days later and installed the pieces with my trusty screwdriver.

First I disconnected the power, removed the screw that hold the element in place. Then, I pulled the element out and cut the two wires. I connected the two wires with the new element as the instruction provided by Part Select. I put the element back and screwed it in place. I plugged in the power and turned on the burner. It works. It is really easy to repair.

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.

1) Unplug stove.
2) Remove back cover of the stove held in place by 8 screws (4 short ones for the upper holes and 4 longer ones for the lower holes.).
3) Remove the knob from the switch that you are replacing to expose
the switch mounting screws (2 screws).
4) Remove the screws.
5) Go to the rear of the stove and extract the defective switch.
6) You will see 2 plastic plugs going into/onto the switch. Remove the
plugs. MAKE SURE YOU ARE UNPLUGGED FROM THE
Wall OUTLET!! A small flat blade may be needed to separate the
plugs from switch.
7) Attach the plugs to the new switch (there is only one way to do it.
you wont get them confused and put on wrong.
8) Put the new switch where the defective one was.
9) Come to the front of the stove and put your two screws in and
replace the knob.
10) Replace the back cover,
11) Plug in and test burner.