FCG2040W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

removed the top plates, the burner heads and their ignition wires. removed the four screws from the range top that hold the gas orifices to the top.Lifted the top off of the stove. used a 1/2 inch open end wrench to remove orifice tube assemblies. put the new tube assemblies in place, wrenched them down, secure but not overly secure. replaced other materials in the same way the they were removed. it took about thirty minutes. had some difficulty replacing the stove top.the stove is an older model and some of the pieces moved when the top was removed.

I replaced the Dual Oven Safety Valve and that didn't fix it. Turns out that even if the igniter glows it still can be the problem. Since the igniter is in the circuit of the Dual Oven Safety Valve, each igniter is responsible for their half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. Apparently as the igniter ages the ohms of the igniter go up reducing the voltage below the 3.3V to 3.6V necessary to open the valve (bi-metal strip wrapped with cal rod wire inside of Dual Oven Safety Valve). Once the ohms go up and the voltage goes down no gas is released from that half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. So it will appear that the Dual Oven Safety Valve is bad but that is not the case. It will be the Igniter corresponding to the burner that is not lighting.

Make sure power to the oven is disconnected. Remove all shelves. Partially open the bottom door and yank it out so it is out of your way. The igniter is next to the back and upper wall of the oven inside the lower (broiler) compartment. The igniter is held by two screws which I opened using a 5/16 or 8mm nut driver. After removing the two screws, remove the back plate using a regular phillips screwdriver. Next, pull out the two igniter wires until the connector comes out. Pressing the side tabs disconnect the igniter from the connector. Connect the new igniter. If nesessary, replenish some of the insulation with new insulation that arrived with the new igniter. Push excessive igniter wiring back, remount the backplate using the phillips screwdriver. Remount the new igniter using the nutdriver. Remount the bottom door. Put all shelves back. You are done.

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.

Cut off the electricity at the junction box. Removed two screws from the sensor at the back of the oven. Then pulled the sensor with the wire out of the installation hole in the back of the oven. Disconnected the quick connect plug from the sensor and reconnected the new part. Reversed the process and screwed the two screens back into the oven wall. Turned the electricity back on and started up the oven. (Everything ran well for about three days when the oven again signaled "F-5" indicating the oven was again not functioning properly. Restarted the oven and is currently running properly. My spouse does a lot of baking with this oven for cookies, roasts, etc. Next time it fails I will be forced to call a repairman as I believe there is something wrong other then the heat sensor.

the repair was not difficult ,take time cause back panel has to be removed to gain access to unplug the temp sensor ,it appear to work but the digital clock still flash not all the timebut it should not flash , not sure that i have fixed it

The hardest part was removing the burners themselves, I used an oil filter wrench to twist them off. After that it went pretty quick. I also used a toothpick to clean out the holes on the burner, and now the igniters work on all the burners.

DISCONNECT AC ELECTRICAL POWER TO RANGE AND TURN OFF GAS SUPPLY TO RANGE 1. Removed door (slide up and off hinges), no tools required. 2. Removed grate/s and burner cover to expose burner and igniter. 3. Used hex socket tool to remove two igniter bracket screws. 4. Carefully pull two woven glass insulated leads connected to igniter until connector is in reach. 5. Use care not to put unnecessary strain on leads and connector body. 5. Squeeze locking tongs of connector, and unplug igniter leads. 6. While holding female end of connector, insert new igniter electrical plug, making certain they latch together. 7. Carefully push excess leads / connector body into recessed area and wrap insulation supplied with igniter kit around glass woven leads of igniter, to re-insulate the cavity opening. 8. Position igniter on burner tube bracket and replace hex screw fasteners. 9. Plug in electrical power to range, turn on gas supply. Check oven for proper operation. If oven does not light, shut off gas supply, unplug electrical power and contact qualified service technician.

really easy thank you to your video

I replaced the igniter, several people on this site agreed that this is the problem and they where rigth.I t was an easy fix. I live 60 miles from the next town and repair shop. I am out in the Alaska bush and can only get to my place by boat or by floatplane. Thank you all you self fixers for your help.

Watch the video, it's too easy and best of all, the part fixed the oven!