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cooking element shorted out and did not heat.
I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...
Pulled out electric heating element and replaced with new. I have had this frustrating problem for 2 years and after replacing the elements they now work like new! My only question, why did it take me so long to replace???
I raised the stove top, read the instructions to my son while he did the work, then I lowered the stove top, installed the burner, and it worked like magic.
Cut the two wires approx 1 inch behind old connector and removed one screws to remove old connector, stripped approx 3/4 inch off the wires and connected them to the new wires on the new connector with wire caps and shrink wraps which came with the new connector. Replaced the old screw with the new screw and the job was completed. Be sure and disconnect power before starting!!
Read instuctions first Turn breaker off to stove or unplug to be sure. Remove burner and drip pans. Remove scews holding socket in place if you are doing more than one make sure you keep in same location. Raise cook top untill supports latch in. Assemble plug it comes with two types holder compare to your plug. cut wire to old plug so you have enough wire to connect back with new. Strip wire back and place shrink tubeover wires wire nut together heat with a lighter or heat gun then do remaining plugges. place back in cover and replace scews. make sure wire are not to long to get under burner when cook top lowered. Lower cook top and clean burner plug ends with a little sandpaper to make sure they make good connection. replace pans and burner. turn on breaker or plug in stove making sure the burners come on when turned on good luck g.d.
It was a very easy fix. I followed the instructions that came with the kit and cut the original cable. Everything you need is in the kit; very few parts. Piece of cake and saved a lot of money an appliance repair person would have charged. This burner works better than the rest. I'm seriously considering replacing the other three blocks.
The four kits arrived, use of a pliers and shink wrap and side cutters...strip wires, twist wires connect wire ties, shrink wrap...little fire, plug the elements...done...four in about ten minutes...Instructions in each package...no problem...very easy...saved twice the money or more...Thanks for the parts...recommend this site purchase...parts arrived very timely...J. Iriwn
2 screws with 1/4" heads hold the element in. Take them out, then gently pull the element out to expose the wire connection at each end. Mine were spade type terminals. Just unplug the old one, plug in the new one, and reinstall the element and retaining screws. Winner, winner, chicken dinner!
I lifted the stove top and cut the two wire connected to the block. Attached the new wire connectors, new block and checked to make sure it was working. The part that took the longest was getting the screw out of the mounting brracked(it was corroded on). I sprayed some WD40 and waited 5 minuts, it came loose. Then i mounted the new bracket and installed the burner. double checked everything and lowered the top. Done
I own 33 ranges I've worked on the last 20 years. So it was easy for me, but I have a couple of tips if you've never done it. Not all ranges are the same so examen yours all around the control panel. look for the hidden screws. Don't just dive in. Some ranges must have the oven door removed, then lay on the floor & take out the screws under the control panel. Some doors, put in broil position & pull straight up. If you have a built in range, like many of mine. You can use a small clamp to hold the top up next to the cabinet. Don't buy any controls until after you've done a resistance load check. Thermostat bulbs may have a bracket on to top inside of the oven that must be unscrewed & removed. Warning; the bulb is charged with alcohol that could blind you so be mindful & work gingerly with it.
Replacement was simple. Old switch was easily removed. Once I swapped the wires from old to new we were in business. One thing I would do differently than the included directions called for. I wish I had waited until I had installed the new switch to set the shaft length. I snapped off one too many sections of the shaft after measuring the original shaft as recommended. If I had installed the replacement switch and then set the shaft length it would have been more accurate. Everything still works but one knob is now slightly lower than the other three.