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fresh food side not getting cold
I wasnt about to call Mr Appliance of Bayport NY the last time I called him I got a bill for $72.00 and he told me I needed a new frig. So I paid him then the next day I went to parts select and fixed it myself for about $50.00 But this time it was my Moms frig and the frig side (fresh food side) wasnt getting cold So again I went to parts select and put in a bimetel thermostat and it works perfect now. Im sure I saved a lot of $ and thanks to parts select, They helped me diagnose the problem and make the repair step by step! EASY! Thanks parts select...Garry from long island NY
I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.
I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.
disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.
I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.
Light switch in the refrigerator was faulty from the first day we installed the fridge.
I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!
First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.
Heard a five second buzzing sound repeated 4 or 5 times per cycle coming from rear lower left compressor side.
Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.
Light switch which turns on the lights when the door opens went out
This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.
The defrost timer that I ordered form you did the trick. My fridge was running all the time and the fridge temp was 55 but the freezer was 10 below. The instructions did not say how to test the old one to compare with the new on. However in the Readers Digest Home Repair book it did and the test proved that it was defective. Your article said that with the system I had, 65% on the time it was the timer. I ordered it and thank you it works just fine. I do have another problem, maybe you can help. The fridge runs for 6 minuets and stays off for 10 minuets. The temp in the freezer is 0 and the fridge is 35-40 on the warmest settings, but all is well. Thank you