EMO3000HWW03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

First I replaced the cracked cooking tray and I was done.

getting the frame on was fairly easy, used a flat knife(butter) to loosen up and flip off, mostly over the notch in the hinge part. the handle did not fit, correctly upon and broke the screw area for securing, and had to order another handle, did not fit with the new frame, only one hole lined up. used the only two screws to that lined up, hopefully will hold good enough

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

I removed 4 screw from the under carriage of the microwave then, removed the 2 screws from the motor, replaced the motor and replaced the screws. It was so easy it took only 4 minutes to perform, better than replacing the whole unit (microwave) and less expensive too. i only wish it was made in the US, I wouldn't mind to spend a little more.

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.

got instructions from this site . Removed top grill with two screws and lifted the door off. Using the putty knife and small screwdriver pried off the inner surround, from the outer edge, not the inner edge. Two screws for the handle were apparent, removed them. Then found the latches holding the inner glass frame ,released them and removed. Next removed the remaining two screws for the handle, the handle could then be put on the new door frame. Good time to clean everything, then reversed steps and reassembled and mounted door. Recommend a quick study of the new outer door frame to find latches and tabs and such to assist in removal of the parts.

Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE

My microwave was squealing horribly and replacing the turntable motor (SUPER easy btw) didn't fix it. So I figured it was a spun bearing or bushing in the cooling fan (spoiler alert -- it was!). Installation was simple and did NOT require removing the cabinet-mounted microwave from its position above our stove: Unplug microwave, carefully unscrew the 2 screws holding the vent grate above the door, remove the grate, then unscrew the one screw holding the top of the control panel to the case. Carefully pivot top of control panel down and unhook it from the case (at the bottom of the control panel there are two little legs or extensions that insert into slots in the case). Then disconnect the 3 or 4 wires that attach the control panel to the wiring harness (I marked them each with tape so I would remember where they go, but you can just take a picture with your phone). Set the control panel aside. Where the control panel was, you will be looking at the fan, with a bunch of wires between you and it. Take another phone picture for reference, just in case. Disconnect the various wires, starting at the top right and working your way around clockwise. I marked each wire with a piece of tape and a number, starting from 1 and working my way around an imaginary clock face. I think I got to 12 and then the last two (sort of buried in the middle) I labeled as "0" and "-1" but you can use any numbering series you like. Once the wires are all disconnected you can gently push them aside and unscrew the two screws holding the fan assembly in place, and disconnect the fan wire. Then gently maneuver the fan assembly out the front of the case. Installation is simply the reverse of this simple disassembly process. Voila! Back to a nice quiet microwave.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

New one arrived very quickly.

Right part. Right on time. Fit like it should.

Excellent service.

Placed the screws in the proper areas, used the screw driver to tighten down and I was in business with light to spare. I am happy to have found the proper screws.
Thank you.

Put it in place. Ordered replacement over internet on Wednesday and part arrived Friday. Very fast service!

.Thank You Dan

Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.